Speaking of Miter Gauges

[tryinhard]

I have a 1983-vintage miter gauge, which has the quick-slide hold down upgrade. I notice that when the hold down is slid down to just above the table, but not put under pressure with the hand grip, the hold down can be moved about an inch-and-a-half on either side of the miter bar.

This became an issue when I was trying to shape end-grain pieces. PTWFE implies that using the hold-down would keep the piece from being pushed away from the cutter--NOT. I am thinking of making a sled for the end shaping.

Does everyone's have this much play, or do I need to consider purchasing a new hand-grip mechanism?

Thanks, Mike

[JPG]

I have a 1983-vintage miter gauge, which has the quick-slide hold down upgrade. I notice that when the hold down is slid down to just above the table, but not put under pressure with the hand grip, the hold down can be moved about an inch-and-a-half on either side of the miter bar.

This became an issue when I was trying to shape end-grain pieces. PTWFE implies that using the hold-down would keep the piece from being pushed away from the cutter--NOT. I am thinking of making a sled for the end shaping.

Does everyone's have this much play, or do I need to consider purchasing a new hand-grip mechanism?

Thanks, Mike

Where is that much play coming from? What parts are moving? That seems very excessive!

The downward pressure when squeezing and the foot squaring to the work piece should minimize(as much as possible) the play.

Understand that it is the friction between the workpiece and the miter bar that keeps the workpiece from slipping sideways. This friction is increased by the pressure of the foot etc. Some pressure is created against the miter gauge face if the foot is angled towards it when squeezed. If too tight when not squeezed, ya do not get that help. Putting sandpaper on the face of the miter gauge(face or extension) will help prevent side slippage.

The old style(with the threaded rod and adjustable knurled nuts) allowed one to really clamp down with the nuts rather than the 'squeeze' handle.

[dusty]

I have a 1983-vintage miter gauge, which has the quick-slide hold down upgrade. I notice that when the hold down is slid down to just above the table, but not put under pressure with the hand grip, the hold down can be moved about an inch-and-a-half on either side of the miter bar.

This became an issue when I was trying to shape end-grain pieces. PTWFE implies that using the hold-down would keep the piece from being pushed away from the cutter--NOT. I am thinking of making a sled for the end shaping.

Does everyone's have this much play, or do I need to consider purchasing a new hand-grip mechanism?

Thanks, Mike

I don't believe that the side to side movement that you have described is excessive. It would be if that movement occurred with clamping pressure applied but you said "but not put under pressure with the hand grip".

However, I do not rely on the Safety Grip for those situations that might result in this sort of movement. In others words, I use it mostly on the saw table for cross cutting.

I'll try to post some pictures later to show how much mine moves.

Anyone whose grip is not so inclined to allow lateral movement might help by posting some pictures also.

Additional Post:

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What you see here is the best it gets. If I move the hold down pawl away from the fence the movement is a bit more than shown here.

[JPG]

I don't believe that the side to side movement that you have described is excessive. It would be if that movement occurred with clamping pressure applied but you said "but not put under pressure with the hand grip".

However, I do not rely on the Safety Grip for those situations that might result in this sort of movement. In others words, I use it mostly on the saw table for cross cutting.

I'll try to post some pictures later to show how much mine moves.

Anyone whose grip is not so inclined to allow lateral movement might help by posting some pictures also.

I have two, one moves 0.25" and the sloppier one 0.50". That is with it tightened, but not 'squeezed'. The amount of motion with it not tightened is not going to affect its ability to hold when tightened, then squeezed.

The difference between the two is that the 'sloppy' one has more clearance in the pistol grip socket thus allowing more rotation of the 'mount'.

EDIT: Removed &#177].

[forrestb]

I suggest that you check the set screw 222458 that holds the 514250 lock guide in place. This secures the 514464 rod and shoe assembly to the Safety Grip.

After some use, my setscrew came loose during a crosscut that resulted in the Rod and Shoe hitting my blade and flying all over the shop - I have yet to find the Shoe.

It is now installed with blue Locktite.

What a demonstration for wearing safety glasses since not only did the Rod and Shoe fly off, so did two carbide teeth on my now defunct blade.