mickyd's Woodworking Projects
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Geez! Sorry about your frustration with stain. I would probably sand as needed, then re-stain.
Personally, I gave up on bristles brushes a few years ago. That's when I found those sponge brushes. Now it's only sponge brushes or rags. Rags for stain and sponges for Polyurethane.
Paul uses Wipe on Poly - and look at the Beautiful - Gorgeous look of his table. Super Work, Paul!! I'm a fan!
Not being very experienced with the most popular stains (minwax and others) when I have used them I wiped them on using a paper rag, and wiped them off real good after a few minutes. The wiping off is important and will serve to eliminate dark areas and remove any runs. Second coats also even out things.
I love those blue paper "Shop Towels" that come on a roll and are available at the big box stores and Wal Mart. I always have two rolls hung in my shop and use them everyday, for gluing, cleaning, washing, varnishing, etc.. They work well when wet and are expendable. They hold together very well and are re-usable if not too dirty. Every week there is a supply of used ones in my trash. When used for varnish (I mostly use Watco finishes) - after use they are spread out on the shop floor or laid outside until dry and stiff. Then they are safe to go into the trash.
Personally, I gave up on bristles brushes a few years ago. That's when I found those sponge brushes. Now it's only sponge brushes or rags. Rags for stain and sponges for Polyurethane.
Paul uses Wipe on Poly - and look at the Beautiful - Gorgeous look of his table. Super Work, Paul!! I'm a fan!
Not being very experienced with the most popular stains (minwax and others) when I have used them I wiped them on using a paper rag, and wiped them off real good after a few minutes. The wiping off is important and will serve to eliminate dark areas and remove any runs. Second coats also even out things.
I love those blue paper "Shop Towels" that come on a roll and are available at the big box stores and Wal Mart. I always have two rolls hung in my shop and use them everyday, for gluing, cleaning, washing, varnishing, etc.. They work well when wet and are expendable. They hold together very well and are re-usable if not too dirty. Every week there is a supply of used ones in my trash. When used for varnish (I mostly use Watco finishes) - after use they are spread out on the shop floor or laid outside until dry and stiff. Then they are safe to go into the trash.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
I have started to use this WIPE-ON POLY stuff also...... learned from an uncle who does old furniture refinishing. two coats of varnish sand between coats and then two coats of wipe-on poly. if you have not tried it give it a shot..... very smooth finish.. if you start with wipe on only seems to take four or five coats to get same finish.......does not leave bumps, bubbles , etc. in finish......
- mickyd
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Had I put half the thought and patience into the first coat of the stain / poly combo, I wouldn't have been crying last night on how bad the finish came out. Tonight, I did it right. I applied the second coat this time, using a narrow 1" foam brush, spread the finish real well, and worked around the 4 sides of each component in roughly 10" sections. This allowed for a 'wet edge' as I went along AND it allowed me to see right away if a thicker (darker) area was present which I could easily touch up since it was still wet. Yesterday, I was in too much of a hurry and was anxious to just get done. Final sanding and applying the finish may not be a combo of tasks I want to do the same day. I had the patience for neither, never mind combining them on the same day.
Concluded that the major problem with the combo stain / poly on this type of project is once it starts to dry, it can't be touched again with the brush because it will double up on the color. You can see it here.
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When I used it on my front door, it worked well since you start at on end and work your way down to the other. On this project, it is inevitable that your going to come to an area where the finish had been applied 5 minutes earlier and it's tacky enough to 'grab' the stain right off the brush if it touches up against it. To do it all again, I would have used conventional stain, wipe, apply clear finish vs. the combo stain / poly Minwax Polyshade product.
Tomorrow will be final assembly day and I'll call this project complete. Time to think of my next one.
Can't wait.
Concluded that the major problem with the combo stain / poly on this type of project is once it starts to dry, it can't be touched again with the brush because it will double up on the color. You can see it here.
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[ATTACH]9316[/ATTACH]
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When I used it on my front door, it worked well since you start at on end and work your way down to the other. On this project, it is inevitable that your going to come to an area where the finish had been applied 5 minutes earlier and it's tacky enough to 'grab' the stain right off the brush if it touches up against it. To do it all again, I would have used conventional stain, wipe, apply clear finish vs. the combo stain / poly Minwax Polyshade product.
Tomorrow will be final assembly day and I'll call this project complete. Time to think of my next one.

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Mike
Sunny San Diego
Sunny San Diego
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'Re-thunk' correct!mickyd wrote:I re-'thunk' what you suggested and wanted to get clarification. When you say to dissolve it, do you mean to wipe with a chemical that would put it back up into suspension, spread it out, and allow the solvent to then evaporate leaving a more uniform layer of the poly? (or am I getting too techy??) It's a good idea if it's doable.....
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- horologist
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I agree, the Minwax wipe on is great varnish and about all I have used for several years now. I've been told that it is just the standard varnish thinned down a bit but haven't verified this. For finishing oval boxes I use the semi gloss and thin it down about 50% with thinner. No sags, runs, and perfect results every time.shipwright wrote:I find most varnishes and urethanes intended for brushing are too sticky to apply well with a cloth. The stuff I use is a Minwax product called "Minwax Wipe- On Poly" strangely enough. It comes in a flat quart can at your nearest store that handles their products. The first time I used it (on that table) it blew me away. It is so easy to use and gives such a great finish, and no, I don't have shares in Minwax (but I'm considering it).
Paul M
Troy
Troy
The best equipped laundry room in the neighborhood...
- mickyd
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Got the pegboard storage rack completed. Excellent addition to the shop. It gives me 16 sq. ft. of pegboard surface (1/2 of a 4’ x 8’ sheet) and since it is mounted onto the side of my workbench, it effectively takes up no space at all. The pegboard on both sides of the doors is definitely the way to go..
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Mike
Sunny San Diego
Sunny San Diego
- JPG
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- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
mickyd wrote:Got the pegboard storage rack completed. Excellent addition to the shop. It gives me 16 sq. ft. of pegboard surface (1/2 of a 4’]
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Verrry Nice! Now do the 'other end'!:) And the back!:D
You will need the space eventually!
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- mickyd
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The back of the workbench is reserved for a 2 foot plywood 'drop leaf' style extension with fold up legs. I plan on making that up soon. The right side has my vise on it so I probably need to leave it as is.JPG40504 wrote:Verrry Nice! Now do the 'other end'!:) And the back!:D
You will need the space eventually!
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Mike
Sunny San Diego
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- mickyd
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Adjustable Set Up Gage
Next project will be this adjustable set-up gage. The design comes from a '90's ShopNotes magazine #5.
I've used a steel scale quite a bit so far so this seems to be the next logical evolution for it to make it easier to read. I am going to make it out of left over African Mahogany and brass that I left over from the candle lantern project. (7-04-10 update - oops....just came to my senses and realized candle lantern used copper, not brass!! I'll have to go out and buy the brass). The scale is held in place with a rare earth magnet. This allows it to be raised and lowered as needed, as shown in the middle photo.
Easy, FREE project.
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Sketchup Plan
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Vertical ruler source _ They make custom rulers also.
My custom brass ruler concept, design, artwork - 532, 534, 549, Final artwork - zipped .bmp file [ATTACH]9695[/ATTACH]
Click here to jump ahead to where the set up gage continues. Next several posts are a different project.
I've used a steel scale quite a bit so far so this seems to be the next logical evolution for it to make it easier to read. I am going to make it out of left over African Mahogany and brass that I left over from the candle lantern project. (7-04-10 update - oops....just came to my senses and realized candle lantern used copper, not brass!! I'll have to go out and buy the brass). The scale is held in place with a rare earth magnet. This allows it to be raised and lowered as needed, as shown in the middle photo.
Easy, FREE project.
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Sketchup Plan
[ATTACH]9502[/ATTACH]
Vertical ruler source _ They make custom rulers also.
My custom brass ruler concept, design, artwork - 532, 534, 549, Final artwork - zipped .bmp file [ATTACH]9695[/ATTACH]
Click here to jump ahead to where the set up gage continues. Next several posts are a different project.
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Mike
Sunny San Diego
Sunny San Diego
Somebody is on a roll! 

Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration