Blade Binding Cutting 1 inch oak

dlbristol · Post by **dlbristol** » Mon Jul 19, 2010 2:49 pm

WHY I LIKE THIS FORUM! This thread is a great example of why I keep coming back to read. I'm sure that if this thread was a "class" it would cost a nice amount. If you could find a store that had folks this helpful, it would be over run with repeat customers. nice job guys.

robinson46176 · Post by **robinson46176** » Mon Jul 19, 2010 8:00 pm

I have been working on a horse stall for a boarding customer in a barn I have down the road. Hey, its sawdust.

I have been making all cuts with a hand held circular saw (cheap B&D, its a lot lighter than my "good" one) and cutting what has sadly become called "white wood" these days. I often refer to it as "tree wood", something pine or spruce or twitchy itchy fir or god knows what. What ever the yard got a deal on... All cuts were going along smoothly even though that generic carbide blade that came with the saw has a lot of time on it and I had to cut through several hard knots. Today I needed to put a treated 2"x6" along the bottom of one wall and it just needed to be cut to length. I grabbed the treated board I had bought for that spot and marked it (superimposing, not measuring)

and made the cut. Dang that one cut was a fight... I had it in a good solid spot on my bench (an inverted steel horse tank) and was using a 90 degree cutting guide (matched the temperature) but you would have thought it was "ironwood". I got a Godzilla grip on the saw and had no trouble but it worked that saw harder than anything I had cut with it before. I mention this because of the mention here of wood moisture content and hard cutting. We have one of the larger wood treating operations here and so if I buy treated wood it usually weighs a ton and at times it is almost dripping wet. You have to go ahead and cut it wet and use it right away or it has a good chance of turning into a pretzel. I made a few more "white wood cuts and they were as easy as before.

fjimp · Post by **fjimp** » Mon Jul 19, 2010 9:18 pm

I remember well attempting to mill several small Cherry logs using the 520. First few cuts went well. Then I experienced some binding and burning. Then I switched out the blade and experienced a brand new world. All went well until finished. A few days later experienced more binding. After a thorough blade cleaning both blades cut like new. No binding, no burning and the blades both looked new. I found it interesting the difference clean blades can make. Although that approach worked for my I would never suggest it as the best approach for others. fjimp

wa2crk · Post by **wa2crk** » Tue Jul 20, 2010 2:16 pm

Farmer;
Do you would be able to cut that treated wet board with a Sawstop?
Bill V

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Tue Jul 20, 2010 3:04 pm

[quote="wa2crk"]Farmer]

He could after he turned off the wiener detector. They do not mention that that MUST be done to saw certain materials, wet wood among them.

So Much for Fail-Safe "Design"! If ya need a work-around/method to disable, for fairly common uses, IMHO the "design" is inadequate!!!

I be eagerly anticipating the suit brought against 'them' when some poor individual is maimed by the 'safe saw' in safe off mode.

robinson46176 · Post by **robinson46176** » Tue Jul 20, 2010 4:38 pm

[quote="wa2crk"]Farmer]

I doubt it. I think I have had hotdogs that were dryer than that wood.

I usually never buy any locally except for immediate use because of that. If I go to Lowes the treated wood is dry and I can store it without worry. Lowes is not local, yet. We have one about 20 miles away. One is coming about 2 miles down the road and I can hardly wait.

tdubnik · Post by **tdubnik** » Wed Jul 21, 2010 4:52 am

robinson46176 wrote: Lowes is not local, yet. We have one about 20 miles away. One is coming about 2 miles down the road and I can hardly wait.

For me, ANYTHING within 20 miles is local. I have to drive 10 minutes to get to the nearest convinence store.

8iowa · Post by **8iowa** » Wed Jul 21, 2010 8:57 am

Here, "in da U.P. eh", Menards is 45 miles away in Escanaba. There is a small lumber yard and Ace Hardware in Manistique, 25 miles, but the choices are limited and more expensive.

I keep a small notebook in my shirt pocket and keep a running shopping list so I'm ready for the occasional trip into town.

rdubbs · Post by **rdubbs** » Tue Jul 27, 2010 9:48 pm

Hi William,

1" oak is easily within the capabilities of the Shopsmith 520. I was asked to do a spindle duplication job this summer from white oak. I was given 2.5" square rough blanks, and asked to produce 2.25" square finished turnings. After I jointed two sides, I ripped the other two to size. I then crosscut to length.

I used a freud Thin Kerf Rip blade and a freud Thin Kerf Crosscut blade. I had little burning and no stalling. My rip fence was set parallel, and the table was set to 90 degrees with my Wixey. I used the Incra miter guage for the crosscut. My cuts were mostly as smooth as the jointer surface.

The Shopsmith has the power.

[ATTACH]9852[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]9853[/ATTACH]

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Wed Jul 28, 2010 8:36 am

rdubbs wrote:Hi William,

1" oak is easily within the capabilities of the Shopsmith 520. I was asked to do a spindle duplication job this summer from white oak. I was given 2.5" square rough blanks, and asked to produce 2.25" square finished turnings. After I jointed two sides, I ripped the other two to size. I then crosscut to length.

I used a freud Thin Kerf Rip blade and a freud Thin Kerf Crosscut blade. I had little burning and no stalling. My rip fence was set parallel, and the table was set to 90 degrees with my Wixey. I used the Incra miter guage for the crosscut. My cuts were mostly as smooth as the jointer surface.

The Shopsmith has the power.

[ATTACH]9852[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]9853[/ATTACH]

I assume ya put the duplicator to work! What are they going to be used on(stair rail, balcony, ???).

That does not look like hobby work! Interesting!