Jointer refurbish.

[Fla_Jim]

Also I need a good lube for the sliding feet on the infeed table, and depth adj screw.

[SDSSmith]

Also I need a good lube for the sliding feet on the infeed table, and depth adj screw.

I wax the feet and groove they ride in, graphite on the stud for the depth adjustment knob.

[billmayo]

Also I need a good lube for the sliding feet on the infeed table, and depth adj screw.

I use LPS Force-842 Dry Moly Lubricant from http://www.chemical-supermarket.com/pro ... ductid=148 in place of any graphite type lube/grease on the Shopsmith equipment.

I find it leaves a nice dark metalic finish on metal parts like arbors, knives, quill feed pinion gear, quadrant, etc. and prevents my spare parts from rusting while stored. It helps keep items from collecting dust or dirt/crud.

[charlese]

I use LPS Force-842 Dry Moly Lubricant from http://www.chemical-supermarket.com/product.php?productid=148 in place of any graphite type lube/grease on the Shopsmith equipment.

I find it leaves a nice dark metalic finish on metal parts like arbors, knives, quill feed pinion gear, quadrant, etc. and prevents my spare parts from rusting while stored. It helps keep items from collecting dust or dirt/crud.

This stuff will probably work even better than spray silicone. I've gone to using silicone rather than graphite. It lubes, stays, and doesn't attract sawdust. I'll have to give this Dry Moly Lube a try!

[Fla_Jim]

I use LPS Force-842 Dry Moly Lubricant from http://www.chemical-supermarket.com/pro ... ductid=148 in place of any graphite type lube/grease on the Shopsmith equipment.

I find it leaves a nice dark metalic finish on metal parts like arbors, knives, quill feed pinion gear, quadrant, etc. and prevents my spare parts from rusting while stored. It helps keep items from collecting dust or dirt/crud.

I like LPS products. I use a lot of LPS #2 on my machine tool parts
I can't justify in my mind spending $17.00 for a can of LPS Force-842 Dry Moly Lubricant, that I'll probably only use once in five years.
I have some silicone, and graphite lubes.

[Fla_Jim]

This morning, I got everything back together. The only causality was a blister on my little finger, when I was trying to align the height of the offset tubes for the drive hub.
I used silicon lube for the depth adjustment screw, and in-feed table supports.
I aligned and squared everything. and finally waxed all the unpainted surfaces.
I originally wanted green paint, but actually I kinda like the gray after everything is said and done.
The last picture is the original photo from e-Bay
[ATTACH]9904[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]9905[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]9906[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]9907[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]9908[/ATTACH]

[SDSSmith]

Looks great, Jim! Have fun with it and be safe! Though I think the headstock is now jealous or is it green with envy? No it's still gray.

[beeg]

OH WOW what a DIFFERENCE.

[terrydowning]

What method/materials did you use for cleaning the fence and top?
How did you make sure sure these were true?

I have a jointer is similar condition as your starting point.

[Fla_Jim]

What method/materials did you use for cleaning the fence and top?
How did you make sure sure these were true?

I have a jointer is similar condition as your starting point.

I used a 2" twist lock "scotch brite" abrasive pad with a pneumatic angle grinder.
I got everything at Harbor Freight. The grinder was less than $20.00 bucks.
The jointer tables didn't have any pits, and as per the pictures, cleaned up very good.
I checked the tables for warpage, and that the two tables were coplanar.
I used a straight edge, and feeler gauges.