Using 7 1/4" Table Saw Blade - appropriate?

copperhill · Post by **copperhill** » Sun Aug 08, 2010 9:21 am

Need some advice on feasibility of using a smaller diameter blade on the table saw. I have a 7 1/4" Forrest Blade still in the box. I bought this before I inherited my SS. Back when I couldn't budget a table saw. My solution then was to use my circular saw and a guide to make my cuts. Now that I have a SS, I want to use the table saw - obviously.

If the arbor size is appropriate, I don't see an issue. But my experience with the table saw is limited. Any thoughts or advice about using this smaller diameter blade? And for the future, are there any minimums or maximums on blade diameter for the SS 500?

P.S. Should I invest in a dedicated plywood blade?

Thanks?

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sun Aug 08, 2010 9:44 am

The minimum and maximum limitations of the blade used is, for the most part, dictated by the job at hand.

I do not recommend putting a larger blade (10") on the Mark V simply because you would be pushing the inherent limitations of the table.

Using a smaller blade is an acceptable practice, understanding that the depth of cut is being limited when you do that. With a 10" blade, the maximum depth of cut on a Mark V is about 3 1/2".

I regularly use a 6" dado blade on the Mark V. It works well and is not restricted at all by the Mark V because you do not normally cut dadoes more than about an inch deep.

You may need a different arbor (5/8") to accommodate the blade but those are available from Shopsmith. The table insert is also worthy of consideration for replacement. I make my own table inserts to work with the blade that I intend to use. This has been discussed on the forum; just do a search for ZCI or zero clearance insert to read the various postings.

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Sun Aug 08, 2010 12:55 pm

Sure! Go right ahead and use your smaller blade, providing you have the proper arbor for it. The only appreciable differences would be - less sawing depth - and - perhaps you will want to use a little faster speed in order to achieve proper tooth speed. This speed won't be very much, as I have found a slower speed works best on the 10" blade to avoid burning.

Plywood blade needed? Not unless you are cutting plywood and your current blade doesn't give good results.

P.S. Whoops! Should have considered the riving knive and upper blade guard! Not good to use 8" blade on a Mark V!

My Bad!!!! Thanks Ed (reible)! (post #11)

mrblanche · Post by **mrblanche** » Sun Aug 08, 2010 1:19 pm

So what IS the standard saw blade size?

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sun Aug 08, 2010 1:22 pm

mrblanche wrote:So what IS the standard saw blade size?

It depends on what you are using for a saw. On the Mark V the standard is 10". For other table saws, the best answer comes from the manual for the particular saw. On some larger table saws, you'll find 12" being very common.

copperhill · Post by **copperhill** » Sun Aug 08, 2010 2:10 pm

dusty wrote:It depends on what you are using for a saw. On the Mark V the standard is 10". For other table saws, the best answer comes from the manual for the particular saw. On some larger table saws, you'll find 12" being very common.

Also didn't I read in some of the older SS manuals that their standard blade was 9"? Seems their blades also always had a 1 1/2" arbor hole. I may have misunderstood. I have a couple 5/8" arbors which I plan to keep connected to blades.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sun Aug 08, 2010 2:59 pm

copperhill wrote:Also didn't I read in some of the older SS manuals that their standard blade was 9"? Seems their blades also always had a 1 1/2" arbor hole. I may have misunderstood. I have a couple 5/8" arbors which I plan to keep connected to blades.

I don't know about blade size on original Shopsmiths but someone will chime in with an answer, I am sure.

As far as the 1 1/2" arbor, I believe that has been standard Shopsmith for a long, long time. Many of us have a blade with a 5/8" hole and an accompanying 5/8" arbor.

reible · Post by **reible** » Sun Aug 08, 2010 4:07 pm

Hi,

Here is a shot of the safety sheets from Shopsmith:

[ATTACH]9992[/ATTACH]

So I'd say if you have shopsmith that was designed for 10" blades and want the safety hardware to work right (blade guards) you will want to use a 10" blades.

If the budget is limited a comb blade will do crosscuts and rips, it also works for plywood, you can decide just how well after doing some cutting.

If you plan to do a lot of plywood or just want better cuts then invest in that sort of blade next, otherwise I'd look for a better rip blade.... and better crosscut blade.

I'd keep the circular saw blade w/saw for breaking down full sheets of plywood which can be done with a guide system and saw horse arrangement.

Ed

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sun Aug 08, 2010 4:35 pm

Well whata you know about that. Those same safety rules are in my manual too. I actually got it out to read believing that it was not.

Now that this discussion has been started I would like to know just why a smaller blade is not recommended by Shopsmith. They certainly have themselves covered in the event of a "Sawstop-Like Legal Fiasco".

Is there a SAFETY Issue?

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sun Aug 08, 2010 5:14 pm

The 10E/R used a 8" saw blade with 5/8" arbor.(Magna Engineering)

The Mark 5(Greenies/Goldies/Smooth Gray) used a 9" saw blade with 1 1/4" arbor.(Magna Engineering/Yuba/Magna American)

Mark V uses a 10" saw blade with a 1 1/4" arbor.(Shopsmith Inc.)

Since SS 'approves' using smaller blades distributed by them, I doubt there is a significant safety issue except for the increased(excessive) clearance between the blade and the blade slot etc. Methinks the litigatious(sp?) legal beagles are defining the 'safety rules', not the rational engineering department.

Used with a ZCI, I see(IMHO) no safety issue.