Using 7 1/4" Table Saw Blade - appropriate?
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- shipwright
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A 7 1/4" blade can be made to work very well. When we first bought in Green Valley I had to make several alterations including a few kitchen cabinets. This table saw cost me about $60 including the horses and a better blade than came in the circular saw. I used it in this mode and on a hinge in cut-off saw mode for two winters before I discovered the SS cult. I won't be going back but it did do some good efficient work. And It's as accurate as you want it to be.
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Paul M
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Paul M
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Paul M ........ The early bird gets the worm but the second mouse gets the cheese
- JPG
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JPG40504 wrote:I feel a need to mention to all that this thread has an underlying theme of 'Risk Management'.
The 'Safety Rules' in the manuals are to discourage users from deviating from the intended use of the equipment as envisioned by the manufacturer.
Their intent is to minimize the potential for accidental injury(and resultant law suits).
When one DOES deviate, it is at their own risk and they are responsible for properly managing that potential risk. This requires an understanding of why the rules are as they are(as Reible has responsibly pointed out) and what 'new' hazards are presented due to those deviations.
For myself, such journeys are common and pursued with caution. It requires forethought as to what might go wrong before undertaking the task.
If one does not have a like mental awareness of the pitfalls, they are best to not go there.
When dealing with moving parts(machinery) you do need to have a complete understanding of what it does and what it might do under abnormal circumstances(deviations ]
Navcop, SEE DE BLUE!
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
I had a 7 inch Oldham blade given to me. It works just fine with the SS and the 5/8 inch arbor and with the saw blade guard in the down position. I also bought the SS plywood blade some time ago. It is only good for thin pieces of plywood only, something around 1/8 inch thick. I needed something for thicker matherial. I was working on a Scout's Eagle project that involved 3/4 inch thick plywood. I found a local family run company that manufactures commercial saw blades. I told them what I was working on and they sold me a commerical blade specifically for thick plywood, then bored out the center hole to SS standards. It works great. Goes through plywood like butter. So to answer your question, if you're going to do a lot of projects with 3/4 inch furniture grade plywood, then I would invest in a good plywood blade.copperhill wrote:Need some advice on feasibility of using a smaller diameter blade on the table saw. I have a 7 1/4" Forrest Blade still in the box. I bought this before I inherited my SS. Back when I couldn't budget a table saw. My solution then was to use my circular saw and a guide to make my cuts. Now that I have a SS, I want to use the table saw - obviously.
If the arbor size is appropriate, I don't see an issue. But my experience with the table saw is limited. Any thoughts or advice about using this smaller diameter blade? And for the future, are there any minimums or maximums on blade diameter for the SS 500?
P.S. Should I invest in a dedicated plywood blade?
Thanks?
Jim Ramsey
Lakewood, CA
"When people find out that my hobby is woodworking, they often ask what do I do with it. I tell them that I am very good at making sawdust and expensive firewood."
Lakewood, CA
"When people find out that my hobby is woodworking, they often ask what do I do with it. I tell them that I am very good at making sawdust and expensive firewood."
- copperhill
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jdramsey wrote:I had a 7 inch Oldham blade given to me. It works just fine with the SS and the 5/8 inch arbor and with the saw blade guard in the down position. I also bought the SS plywood blade some time ago. It is only good for thin pieces of plywood only, something around 1/8 inch thick. I needed something for thicker matherial. I was working on a Scout's Eagle project that involved 3/4 inch thick plywood. I found a local family run company that manufactures commercial saw blades. I told them what I was working on and they sold me a commerical blade specifically for thick plywood, then bored out the center hole to SS standards. It works great. Goes through plywood like butter. So to answer your question, if you're going to do a lot of projects with 3/4 inch furniture grade plywood, then I would invest in a good plywood blade.
Thanks, Jim. Great info and advice.
More on 7.25" blades
This Thread may be about dead but I found this today when looking up some info in my Users Manual for a 1982 500. (I hope my low res pic is visible.)
Read Blade Projection and Size
Read Blade Projection and Size
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New Leaf Custom Woodworking
Berry Conway - Chief Dust Maker
Berry Conway - Chief Dust Maker
- JPG
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WELL! You nailed down TWO questions!!!!
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Make that THREE! Some 500's had the extra slot!!
P.S. Reible What vintage is the manual you posted above which contradicts this?
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Make that THREE! Some 500's had the extra slot!!
P.S. Reible What vintage is the manual you posted above which contradicts this?
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Blade Size
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Does anyone remember an 8" Blade from SS?
Does anyone remember an 8" Blade from SS?
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- JPG
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That is what the model 10 used. Still does! They have 5/8" arbor hole!!!MikeG wrote:[ATTACH]10191[/ATTACH]
Does anyone remember an 8" Blade from SS?
Oh and a 3/4" miter gauge slot/bar.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange