So I have a greenie that I got for free thats in pretty decent shape...turning it into a shorty =) Motor works fine from what I can tell, as do the bearings and gilmer setup. The motor sheeves are stuck together though.
On my motor shaft there is a spring and a nut. How do I stabalize the motor shaft so I can get the nut off?
Thanks!
Greenie refurbishing - how to remove the nut on the motor shaft?
Moderator: admin
You might want to review the Sawdust Sessions; of special interest would be those that deal with rebuilding a Mark V.damagi wrote:So I have a greenie that I got for free thats in pretty decent shape...turning it into a shorty =) Motor works fine from what I can tell, as do the bearings and gilmer setup. The motor sheeves are stuck together though.
On my motor shaft there is a spring and a nut. How do I stabalize the motor shaft so I can get the nut off?
Thanks!
[quote="Stitch"]You might want to review the Sawdust Sessions]
I have watched those. Problem is that the nut is 1", but so is the spring =( thu, the hole in the piece of wood trick doesn't work. I can wedge down the spring with a 3/4" wrench, so that seem ok. However, getting the nut off is going to be impossible if I can't prevent the shaft from spinning. I'm thinking vise grips right now...unless someone has a better suggestion. I just dont want to damage the shaft.
I have watched those. Problem is that the nut is 1", but so is the spring =( thu, the hole in the piece of wood trick doesn't work. I can wedge down the spring with a 3/4" wrench, so that seem ok. However, getting the nut off is going to be impossible if I can't prevent the shaft from spinning. I'm thinking vise grips right now...unless someone has a better suggestion. I just dont want to damage the shaft.
Not sure this would work, but...... I would take a small piece of 1/4 plywood and drill a 5/8 in. hole in it. I would the split the plywood down the center line of the hole. I would then slide each have of the plywood between the spring and the nut. Then place your board with the 1 in. hole over the nut and screw through the board into the 1/4 in. ply to hold the pieces in place (2 screws each). I would then compress the spring. I use a couple of bar clamps since I normally do this task by myself. I am guessing the thread is left handed since the motor turns clockwise as viewed from the shaft end. I might try to keep the shaft from rotating by restraining the fan sheave.damagi wrote:I have watched those. Problem is that the nut is 1", but so is the spring =( thu, the hole in the piece of wood trick doesn't work. I can wedge down the spring with a 3/4" wrench, so that seem ok. However, getting the nut off is going to be impossible if I can't prevent the shaft from spinning. I'm thinking vise grips right now...unless someone has a better suggestion. I just dont want to damage the shaft.
Rob in San Diego
Email: SDSSmith51 AT gmail.com
Email: SDSSmith51 AT gmail.com
Yes, the nut is left handed. With the motor shaft vertical, I spray some "Kroil" (penetrating oil) on the center of the nut and shaft. I have taken quite a few nuts off by using a box end wrench on the nut and turning the motor sheaves to start removing the nut. Apply additional pressure on the wrench and being extra careful when you see that the nut is about to come off the shaft. I reattach the nut the same way by holding down on the nut and spring with the box end wrench and turning the sheaves in the opposite direction.SDSSmith wrote:Not sure this would work, but...... I would take a small piece of 1/4 plywood and drill a 5/8 in. hole in it. I would the split the plywood down the center line of the hole. I would then slide each have of the plywood between the spring and the nut. Then place your board with the 1 in. hole over the nut and screw through the board into the 1/4 in. ply to hold the pieces in place (2 screws each). I would then compress the spring. I use a couple of bar clamps since I normally do this task by myself. I am guessing the thread is left handed since the motor turns clockwise as viewed from the shaft end. I might try to keep the shaft from rotating by restraining the fan sheave.
I sometimes use the same board I drilled for the washer and snap ring motors to remove and reattach the nut when the wrench is not handy.
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
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This is how I have done it. Much easier once I realized the left handed thread.
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?p=71767&postcount=18
I made a crude wrench for holding the pulley by cutting a notch in a board for the shaft, and driving two nails into it that served as pins that slipped into the 'vanes' of the sheave.
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?p=71767&postcount=18
I made a crude wrench for holding the pulley by cutting a notch in a board for the shaft, and driving two nails into it that served as pins that slipped into the 'vanes' of the sheave.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Success!
So I finally got the nut off. I ended up completely disassembling the motor (3/4 hp A.O. Smith). I then put the shaft into a vise and used a rubber mallet on the end of my wrench.
I am certain the nut hadn't moved in 50 years, so no surprise that it was so hard to get off...I can see why it was switched to the washer and clip setup.[ATTACH]10352[/ATTACH]
I am certain the nut hadn't moved in 50 years, so no surprise that it was so hard to get off...I can see why it was switched to the washer and clip setup.[ATTACH]10352[/ATTACH]
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Make sure the vise did not distort the shaft prior to reassembly.damagi wrote:So I finally got the nut off. I ended up completely disassembling the motor (3/4 hp A.O. Smith). I then put the shaft into a vise and used a rubber mallet on the end of my wrench.
I am certain the nut hadn't moved in 50 years, so no surprise that it was so hard to get off...I can see why it was switched to the washer and clip setup.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange