Just won a SS jointer - HOW DO I ATTACH IT?

mgdesigns · Post by **mgdesigns** » Thu Aug 26, 2010 9:15 am

I recall on Tuesday when I had it opened up, the motor shaft end did had a retaining clip inside of a large steel shaft end/spring retainer. From Nick's videos it looks as though the process will be the same to compress the spring and remove the retaining clip then slowly allow the spring to decompress.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Thu Aug 26, 2010 9:37 am

mgdesigns wrote:I recall on Tuesday when I had it opened up, the motor shaft end did had a retaining clip inside of a large steel shaft end/spring retainer. From Nick's videos it looks as though the process will be the same to compress the spring and remove the retaining clip then slowly allow the spring to decompress.

My recommendation is to do this in a small enclosed space. By doing so, you will have greatly improved your chances of finding the retaining clip after the spring gets away from you.

I did this in the doorway of my garage/shop. I searched for "hours" for that clip; had to get a replacement. I found it a few days ago when I was unloading the groceries.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Thu Aug 26, 2010 10:41 am

[quote="dusty"]My recommendation is to do this in a small enclosed space. By doing so, you will have greatly improved your chances of finding the retaining clip after the spring gets away from you.

I did this in the doorway of my garage/shop. I searched for "hours" for that clip]
WOW!!! It flew all the way to the grocery store!:D

If yours has the hub and clip, you may have a larger motor! That would be good.

mgdesigns · Post by **mgdesigns** » Wed Sep 01, 2010 7:39 pm

Well, I tor into the SS MkV and good new and bad news. The s/n reveals that this is a 1955 unit. I tore it down last night in the garage. It took over a half hour to get the table saw table to get positioned on the underside of the way tubes, with the unit in the drill press mode. But when I finally got the shelf in waiting, I removed the drive pulley well, and then the motor, and got the idler shaft removed.

The bad news is someone had disassemble this unit in the past and not put in keys for the keyways, and left ot set screws for the upper Gilmer shaft gear. That's why when the pulleys stopped engaging, the motor kept spinning and nothing else happened. I thought there was a blown upper bearing on the LH output shaft, but that turned out to be the face of the Gilmer pulley rubbing againg the face of the housing. I have obtained a 12" long piecce of 1/8" square keystock at the local Ace Hardware and will install a key in the AM and I already have a new setscrew to fit where one has been left out. Other than that - it appears the unit is mechanically in good shape, and all of the bearings appear to spin smoothly. I'll de-grease them and regrease witgh that good green grease I use in my bicycle bottom bracket as it is super viscosity and water-proof. It looks the same as the grease that was already in the main bearing anyhow. Even though this is a 3/4 hp General Electric motor, and single bearing quill - I think this unit will be sufficient for me in the future. My friend that really helped me a lot to disassemble it marvelled at the engineering and simplicity of design. The amazing thing is, when the retining ring broke for the end oof the motor shaft - TSC had a perfect set of 2 for $1.79 just waiting for me. The missing keystock took 5 stores to finally find, but with a foot of it in hand I have plenty to spare now. The videos by Nick Engler are extremely helpful, and I cannot wait to get back at throwing chips on the floor.

The Magna Jointer arrive 2 nights ago and my wife is very anxious for me to get it the Heck out of the Family room. It looks to be in perfect condition, and all of the working surfaces are nicely re-surfaced, and ready for a coat of wax. The knives look pretty good, but one has a nick. But I think I can rig up a sharpening jig and hone them all to the same height and sharpen them up. No drive hub on the input shaft, but I have a couple extras. Even the upright tubes have been re-conditioned. Can't wait to try that out. I've got 14 guitar necks waiting for a chance to become musical.

mgdesigns · Post by **mgdesigns** » Thu Sep 02, 2010 8:59 pm

HOW long is the short keystock for the Idler Shaft?

Who ever rebuilt this puppy in the past left the key stock out of the shaft with the variable pitch upper pulleys. The Exploded View of the Parts Manual shows it to be the short key, but how long should it be? I got a 12" long piece of key stock, so I am ready to cut it and fit it. Thanks ahead of time for the help. You Folks are GREAT!!

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Thu Sep 02, 2010 11:16 pm

mgdesigns wrote:HOW long is the short keystock for the Idler Shaft?

Who ever rebuilt this puppy in the past left the key stock out of the shaft with the variable pitch upper pulleys. The Exploded View of the Parts Manual shows it to be the short key, but how long should it be? I got a 12" long piece of key stock, so I am ready to cut it and fit it. Thanks ahead of time for the help. You Folks are GREAT!!

The keyway also has a crook in the end that retains it in the 'groove'. There is a slight deeper cut in the 'groove' under the 'fixed' half of the pulley. It is probably best to get this part from ss, unless, you are adept at both 'forming' the keystock, and guessing what those bends should be.

The crook nests into the deeper part of the 'groove' and the fixed pulley half slides over it and keeps it in place. The fixed pulley also has a retaining spring/clip that prevents it moving along the shaft. It fits into a narrow groove in the shaft.

mgdesigns · Post by **mgdesigns** » Mon Sep 13, 2010 5:26 pm

Yep - I got brave this AM, and fired that old Greenie up - it runs. I had the belt set to the fastest speed, so the motor choked and would not start it up, so I hand turned the quill while gently reducing the speed control to the slowest and tried to re-start the motor - TADA. It runs fine now. Thanks.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Mon Sep 13, 2010 8:35 pm

JPG40504 wrote:The keyway also has a crook in the end that retains it in the 'groove'. There is a slight deeper cut in the 'groove' under the 'fixed' half of the pulley. It is probably best to get this part from ss, unless, you are adept at both 'forming' the keystock, and guessing what those bends should be.

The crook nests into the deeper part of the 'groove' and the fixed pulley half slides over it and keeps it in place. The fixed pulley also has a retaining spring/clip that prevents it moving along the shaft. It fits into a narrow groove in the shaft.

A picture is worth a thousand words. This is the idler shaft assembly minus the idler sheave.

[ATTACH]10372[/ATTACH]

Shopsmith Forums

Just won a SS jointer - HOW DO I ATTACH IT?

HOW long is the short keystock for the Idler Shaft?

IT's ALIVE!!