.
.
[ATTACH]10346[/ATTACH]
.
.
When I cut out the copper motifs for the candle lantern project, I broke a ton of blades that I know now was due to blade tension issues and also not having the optimum style blade for all the tight turns. This plan called out #5 univ. 12-1/2 tpi skip tooth. All the blades I had were Ryobi's and packaging didn't specify the #. I started using what I had on the practice cuts and quickly broke 2 in the tight turns (due to overheating) so decided to head to Rockler and get the ones the plan called out. HUGE difference. The #5 is a much smaller blade (back of blade to tip of teeth) than any of the Ryobi blades carried by Home Depot. Ready for the real cuts!!!
Watched a bunch of youtube videos last night on scroll saw work. Picked up some great tips that worked real well for me today.
- Adjust blade tension so when plucked, it makes the sound of a 'high C' note. That meant ZERO to me but LOML has one of those music things you blow into to tune instruments and my ear is now tuned to what high C is.
General consensus also seemed to be more tension is better than less if your going to err one way or the other. - If applying a letter paper pattern to the stock vs. using carbon paper to outline the lettering, use spray adhesive FOLLOWED UP by a layer of clear box tape (aka packing tape). It said the clear packing tape serves two purposes. One, it acts as a blade lubricant AND assists in the removal of the pattern when your done. To remove the paper pattern, use a heat gun and the packing tape shrivels up, in turn pulling the paper and adhesive up off the stock eliminating the need to sand it off. Worked great. The heat gun actually blows the paper/tape right off unassisted. Anyone that glued the paper to the stock without then covering it with the packing tape definately needs to try this method. Makes removal a breeze.
.
[ATTACH]10347[/ATTACH]
.
.
The design calls for scroll saw lettering that gets cut out at a taper angle so that the lettering can be recessed into wood simulating a router cut. To do that, the saw table is tilted about 2-1/2 degrees so that the lettering actually has a small taper. When the blade is removed, the lettering gets pressing into the hole and because of the taper, it stops at about 1/4" deep. Pretty neat effect. This shows the the lettering getting cut out.
.
.
[ATTACH]10348[/ATTACH]
.
.
Here's what it looks like so far.
.
.
[ATTACH]10349[/ATTACH]
.
.
Botched up a little on the letter 'o' when drilling the saw blades pilot hole. The drill chuck jaw contacted the worksurface. Little wood putty should do the trick, I hope.
The next shot shows the half blind dovetail joint. This was done in place of the plans butt joint (had to justify why I bought the dovetail jig somehow
) . Came out pretty decent. The shot also shows the lettering protruding on the back surface that needs to get cut off and sanded down flush..
.
[ATTACH]10350[/ATTACH]
.
.
One more day and the woodworking part of the project is complete (finish sanding, gluing the dovetail joints and the lettering in, doweling the top numbers to the frame). After that, mounting it on the house and running electricity to it for the backlighting. I'll be using 2-12V license plate lights which get mounted to the back surface.
Just curious, why does the lettering need to be cut down flush on the back? Isn't it completely out of sight?
