Shopsmith as drill press

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rustysaw
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Post by rustysaw »

holsgo wrote:How about the setscrew on the top of the machine. The one that must be loosened for quill removal. If it's too tight it locks the quill.
Found the set screw,loosened and removed it quill still will not
move.There is a round knob between the unit and chuck that has a setscrew
in it.I removed the setscrew and it will not come off,will this piece stop
the quill from going in and out. Problem I have, unit was giving to me with
no information and the friend who gave it to me got it from some one else
and don't know how to work it.
rustysaw
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Post by rustysaw »

dusty wrote:rusty and I have had some communication via PM. He appears to be unable to extend the quill. We have ascertained that it is not locked. He cannot turn the quill shaft at all.

Is it possible that the gears on the quill are gummed up to the extent that it will not move at all.

rust, I am posting a picture here that shows the quill and the gear that causes it to extend. After you have had a chance to view this, maybe we'll be able to solve your problem.

[ATTACH]11413[/ATTACH]

Other than grubby or damaged gears, what might this be. Help me out here fellas.
Is that a view from the bottom cover,I removed the back
cover and only see the drive belt,will remove bottom cover tuesday if I don't
hear back not to do this
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

don't worry about the set screw in the aluminum collar between the chuck and the headstock. Re-secure that setscrew with the collar in its original position and we can deal with that later. It should come off but not doing so does not play into your problem.

What model Shopsmith are we working with. If you don't know, see if you can find the serial number. That will tell the forum what you have.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

rustysaw wrote:Found the set screw,loosened and removed it quill still will not
move.There is a round knob between the unit and chuck that has a setscrew
in it.I removed the setscrew and it will not come off,will this piece stop
the quill from going in and out. Problem I have, unit was giving to me with
no information and the friend who gave it to me got it from some one else
and don't know how to work it.

The knurled knob between the chuck and the headstock is a bearing retainer and will not be a likely cause. Do you understand my last post re quill STOP? Is the dial set to 4+? Better yet, is the quill stop wingnut loose? I assume from Dusty's post the quill LOCK wingnut is loose also.

The setscrew mentioned earlier is on top of the headstock just over the quill.

The next step will probably be to remove the quill feed shaft(the one with all these wingnuts etc.) That will involve the removal of another set screw.

Some pix might shed light on this 'problem'.
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

That view is with the motor pan removed. Unless you are at high speed or very close to high speed you will not be able to drop that unit. The drive belt is connected to a pulley on the motor at will prevent the pan from dropping.

If it is at high speed, there should be enough slack in the belt to roll the belt off thus allowing the pan to drop.

If the belt is off, there are five screws to be removed and the power wires must be disconnected from the switch. UNPLUG FROM THE WALL when working inside the headstock.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

dusty wrote:don't worry about the set screw in the aluminum collar between the chuck and the headstock. Re-secure that setscrew with the collar in its original position and we can deal with that later. It should come off but not doing so does not play into your problem.

What model Shopsmith are we working with.
If you don't know, see if you can find the serial number. That will tell the forum what you have.

Good question!

We have all been assuming a Mark 5/V.

It could be a model 10! Never mind, he says mark V and a 10 does not have a motor pan!

If it be blue or gray and cast iron, check to see the quill stop nuts are towards the end of the square threaded rod. If it is a 10, wonder what set screw he 'removed from the headstock'? Ignore also!

Please describe the end(s) of the quill feed shaft that the single handle attaches to and the hub the handle screws into. [ a pix would avoid all this!]:)
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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holsgo
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Post by holsgo »

Yes. I need a pic to visualize. That quill should be coming out if 1) the setscrew on the top is backed out 2) the depth adjustment is loose (like just spin the wingnut almost off and 3 the quill stop wingnut is spun loose. If these 3 are done then I can only assume a quill that has maybe been fed into the headstock wrong and jammed or a feed assembly issue. We would know with a bottom up pic.
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ddvann79
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Post by ddvann79 »

Rusty, if you're looking for a manual and the unit is pre 1970's, you can download this one from the SSUG.org or over at Song of the Great Lakes. If you want other documentation on how to use the machine, you'll really be interested in Power Tool Woodworking for Everyone. I highly recommend it. You can read the on-line version at the Shopsmith website or you can purchase a hard copy. Personally, I love books and I much prefer to have the book in hand.

Also, this document helps for disassembly and maintenance. You can view some videos on maintenance on the Sawdust Sessions. Lastly, Mickyd's tread index is pretty useful for troubleshooting.

The exploded parts diagramsare pretty useful for identifying the parts you're trying to describe.

If you can post some pictures, even something you took with your cell phone, it would help identify the issue. Here's how to do it.

I vote rust and gunk if it looked like this.

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[ATTACH]11427[/ATTACH]
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IMG01172-20101114-1848.jpg (124.09 KiB) Viewed 2913 times
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IMG01178-20101114-1855.jpg (104.6 KiB) Viewed 2885 times
Dalton
Fort Worth, Texas
1962 MK 5 #373733 Goldie
rustysaw
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serial number for ss as drill press

Post by rustysaw »

dusty wrote:don't worry about the set screw in the aluminum collar between the chuck and the headstock. Re-secure that setscrew with the collar in its original position and we can deal with that later. It should come off but not doing so does not play into your problem.

What model Shopsmith are we working with. If you don't know, see if you can find the serial number. That will tell the forum what you have.
ss#58628 I checked that on the site and it should be a 1980.the color
is gray, cast iron unit. the set screw I removed is right over the ouill
on top of unit.I also have all the ouill lock handle's off,and I can't set
the depth knob because I told you the round aluminum piece behind
it will not move,unless I an doing something wrong.Guy's I really
appreciate all the help.don't give up on me! Thank's
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

rustysaw wrote:ss#58628 I checked that on the site and it should be a 1980.the color
is gray, cast iron unit. the set screw I removed is right over the ouill
on top of unit.I also have all the ouill lock handle's off,and I can't set
the depth knob because I told you the round aluminum piece behind
it will not move,unless I an doing something wrong.Guy's I really
appreciate all the help.don't give up on me! Thank's

1) If it is a Mark V from 1980 it should also say shopsmith, Inc. with the serial #.

2) Then it be a cast aluminum headstock.

3) The 'depth knob'(lets refer to it as the 'dial') should rotate between and stop at "0" and "4+".

4) The aluminum part behind the dial should NOT move.

5) The quill shaft should rotate with the 'aluminum part behind the dial' acting as bushing, and the headstock on the other end doing the same. There is a steel sleeve on the quill lock side(headstock bushing).

6) With the quill stop wingnut removed, there should be a keyed washer on the outside of the dial and one on the inside face. Both washers and the dial should pull straight off the quill shaft.

7) On the other end(quill lock) there should be a curved spring washer between the wingnut and the 'sleeve'.

8) With all these parts 'removed', there is only something inside that could be restricting quill extension.

9) If a visual check of the quill rack and pinion and quill bore does not reveal 'the cause', then removal of the quill shaft be next.

Nuf for now! Come back with what you observed.

P.S. If you cannot rotate the dial, then it is possible the keyed washer(s) is(are) jammed on the keyed shaft. If so 'they gotta come off!!!'
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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