Push sticks

robinson46176 · Post by **robinson46176** » Wed Jan 26, 2011 8:45 pm

I was doing a Google "image" search on push sticks just for fun (I sometimes do stuff like that) and I was surprised at just how poor some of the designs guys were using actually were. Even some that guys were really extra proud of.
Caution... I may step on some toes here, sorry.
I have used the old generic stick with a notch in the end about forever... Not really a good design. I'm making new ones now and trying to dump some of my old habits. I'm still quite strong but not quite as much as I was 10 years ago. I am also more absent minded than I used to be and more easily distracted... Hey look a shiny object...

I try to keep looking at everything I do all over the farm constantly to think if I am doing things the best (and safest) way. That is especially true of the horses. As I set up this woodshop (I actually worked in there a couple of hours today) I am forcing myself to look at how I do everything in there.
This is my vote for the best push stick design I found, simple, good hand clearance and holds down more than the back edge. It must be good plywood to avoid being weak at the top of the handle. I think I will just leave it attached at the bottom of the handle as well like most regular saw handles. I think it is a mistake to try to be too cute or classy on a piece of safety equipment. Forget being cute and put all of your thought into making it as safe as possible. Save cute for the projects.

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This one for example does not have nearly enough clearance above the blade. On a side note, I know it is just a picture but why use a push stick on a board being cut that wide between the blade and the fence? Just get a good grip on it.

I hope the left hand is not pushing on the board on the free side of the blade (can pinch the cut).
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JPG · Post by **JPG** » Wed Jan 26, 2011 9:10 pm

On a related subject, I watched a couple of pitches for fancy pusher/holdowns(think gripprer for one) and they both used 'simple' pushsticks to make their point re properly guiding the workpiece.

They both(as is your last pix) pushing the workpiece from a position close to the fence. As one would expect the work piece tended to rotate away from the fence and towards the blade.

Now while that was used to 'make their point', IMHO that is a dumb way to push it! I would be pushing from a position between the center of the blade to fence separation and the blade and pushing the workpiece both forward and towards the fence. From the 'closer to the blade' position the workpiece has a natural tendency to rotate towards the fence(just the opposite of the 'demonstration' technique).

This type of misleading demonstration 'turns me off' to the intended result.

Sorta like using a rope for demonstration purposes and pushing it instead of pulling it. Needless to say pushing a rope doesn't work(unless it is quite stiff or frozen).

shipwright · Post by **shipwright** » Wed Jan 26, 2011 9:14 pm

The only thing I'd add to that fine "shoe" is that for my money it's too elaborate. I say this because I believe that a shoe is a consumable and often the saw runs through it. When too much is eaten away, you throw it away and start a new one. My opinion of the forked stick that only controls the back end of the work is that it probably adds to the danger rather than reducing it.... but you know that I'm really open minded on this topic, right Francis?

Paul M

terrydowning · Post by **terrydowning** » Thu Jan 27, 2011 11:54 am

Bad form in the small photo above aside, at least there is an upper saw guard in place. Please remember this is an advertisement. If the operator were to have the pusher (which they are trying to sell BTW) in the best position, it would be more difficult to see in the photo.

I don't about the rest of you but I have never used an Advertisement as an instructional aide especially when it comes to power tools and safety.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Thu Jan 27, 2011 10:21 pm

One 'detail' the grrripper videos conveniently 'overlook'(at least do not show or call attention to) is the exposed blade after the grrrripper passes over it!

And they have the gall to state the grrripper provides protection from the blade by way of its 'tunnel'!

Guess you are supposed to have more than one so they can pass over the blade in sequence!:(

I like Farmers bbq grill cleaning pad with handle better. Less $$$!

foxtrapper · Post by **foxtrapper** » Tue Feb 01, 2011 7:52 am

My favorite to use push stick looks a whole lot like the first picture in this thread. It's thin, smallish hook on the tail, and works real nicely. The being thin part is probably it's greatest "claim to fame" as it were.

Regular push sticks, the true stick types, I find rather awkward to use.

berry · Post by **berry** » Tue Feb 01, 2011 5:40 pm

Here's my favorite. I think I got the idea from Woodsmith Magazine.

The 'shoe' can be longer as needed. The 'heel' can be longer or shorter to accommodate the currant need. I can make notes on it. And I just toss it in the fireplace when it's tired and make a new one. I always expected the handle to crack but it hasn't.

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