Keep one / Sell one - always a nice dilemma

cobalt60 · Post by **cobalt60** » Tue Feb 01, 2011 2:03 am

Hi all,

I'm coming off a great craigsList experience -- one of the only "good" ones I've ever had -- nice seller, product as-described, reasonable price, etc. So nice, in fact, that instead of haggling for just some of the parts of the SS for sale, I bought the whole package. My logic is that I can cobble the "best of show" parts into one SS, sell the rest, and have paid what I wanted for the couple accessories I originally went there for.

So, I wanted to throw some quick pics into the forum and see if you all have any strong advice. I'm desperately hoping this thread won't come off as annoying, OCD, or overly nit-picky. Rather, I hope this is FUN (just tell me to stfu if I get annoying!)!

So... first up in the game: Main tables.

On the left, Table A, and the right Table B:
[ATTACH]11714[/ATTACH]

Mostly the same, right? Well, yeah, I did mention this might get OCD! Let's dig deep to find some minor differences.

First off, the thumbscrews are slightly different. Also, I'm not sure if the tubes are different metal, different treatments, or just a different age.

[ATTACH]11715[/ATTACH]

Even more minor, check out the slightly different stop-bolt shapes, and attachment screws:

Table A
[ATTACH]11716[/ATTACH]

Table B
[ATTACH]11717[/ATTACH]

You've probably noticed the biggest visual different by now. The paint on Table A is a close-match grey to most SS stuff, while table B sports a glossier black coat. The black makes Table B look "crisper" in some ways, but I'd actually say the fit and finish is equal, or possibly a tad more ragged on Table B.

In terms of flatness: Oddly enough, neither table is truly flat across its entire length. Both have a slight bow perpendicular to the mitre slots. It's a tiny amount, but a bit surprising for a "main" table of any sort. Both tables sport the same amount of extension table "sag" I posted a previous thread about.

So seriously, for this round of KoSo, my main questions are:

-- is either table "newer," "better," or "more reliable" than the other, for any reason?

-- Assuming that one day I'll finally suck it up and get the 520 upgrade, is either table more / less suited to an optimal upgrade?

-- Is this thread ridiculous? If not, I have a few more rounds of KoSo to play with you all!

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Tue Feb 01, 2011 4:35 am

It appears that you have two recoverable Mark Vs but to chose one over the other based on these photos is impossible (for me). Do they both run equally well?

My approach would be to tear them down (disassemble) into their many parts, clean all of the parts as best I could and then put one together using the best of the parts. After doing a complete lubrication and alignment you have a ready machine.

Now assemble the remaining parts into the second machine and do the same. If it aligns equally well as the first, then you have a hard decision. Well maybe for you it is hard.

I'd keep both.

:)

peterm · Post by **peterm** » Tue Feb 01, 2011 5:45 am

Based on the serial nos, I'd pick the newer one, assuming they both run fine.

Gene Howe · Post by **Gene Howe** » Tue Feb 01, 2011 9:26 am

dusty wrote:It appears that you have two recoverable Mark Vs but to chose one over the other based on these photos is impossible (for me). Do they both run equally well?

My approach would be to tear them down (disassemble) into their many parts, clean all of the parts as best I could and then put one together using the best of the parts. After doing a complete lubrication and alignment you have a ready machine.

Now assemble the remaining parts into the second machine and do the same. If it aligns equally well as the first, then you have a hard decision. Well maybe for you it is hard.

I'd keep both.:)

As usual, Dusty's advice is quite sound. EXCEPT don't bother keeping both. They take up too much room and you can only use one at a time.
I'll make it easy for you. After you have them both running, just ship me the one you don't want. I'll even pay the shipping costs.

SDSSmith · Post by **SDSSmith** » Tue Feb 01, 2011 9:38 am

The black paint on the edge of the tables (if original) was used after the gray. So normally, black edges mean newer. But the work is not done on the edges it is done on the surfaces. What do the surfaces of the worktable look like? Are both ribbed all the way across or is the black edged one smooth around the insert?

cobalt60 · Post by **cobalt60** » Tue Feb 01, 2011 2:46 pm

Ok, the game is off to a good start, thanks for the replies so far!

-- For clarity, this round is only looking at the main tables. I'll post the headstocks and other swap-ables in subsequent rounds!

-- Also to clarify, I can't keep both that would sorta ruin the space-saving feature for me! My goal is to franken-assemble the best 510 I can from all the parts I have, and sell the rest.

-- Looks like both units are v500's upgraded to 510 tables, which will become clear when I post the headstocks.

-- Interesting to hear that black came after grey. I might choose black based on that alone. Paint looks "crisper" on black, for sure.

-- Tops are both "not perfectly flat," in that they both have a minor hump perpendicular to the miter slots. Basically the same amount of "lump" across each.

Thanks again. Round 2 is coming soon

pennview · Post by **pennview** » Tue Feb 01, 2011 3:19 pm

If the only difference between the two is appearance, it's a no brainer. But I'd also check the miter gauge and slots for fit, tighter being better. You can use feeler gauges to measure if necessary. I'd also check that any of the fittings used to adjust the setting for tilt or stops are in good working order--nothing loose or stripped. And that the table fits the carriage well and allows for easy elevating and removal/installation. Any sticking may simply be the result of crud or the need for waxing, or possibly something more serious. That hump in the table could affect your ability to get holes that are consistently square to the surface of your stock when using it in drill press mode.

cobalt60 · Post by **cobalt60** » Tue Feb 01, 2011 4:20 pm

Thanks penn! I went home for lunch after reading your reply, and ran a more objective test on the miter slots and elevation wheel (name?).

Table B's elevation wheel works MUCH better, and the miter slots seem about equal. I think this all points to keeping ...

Table B! Victory to the new!

Now for the next round. As best I can tell, this is a true no-brainer.

Jointer A is green (and under the Magna label), and Jointer B is grey and made by SS. Both are really quite flat, and both table pairs align very nicely. Adjustment ease seems equal, and I just sharpened Jointer A's blades. From everything I've read, these are nearly identical, regardless of the age difference.

[ATTACH]11730[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]11731[/ATTACH]

No-brainer comes in to play with these points:

-- Jointer A's xxxxx has a bit of visually apparent wear on the inside of the slotted portion.

-- Jointer A has "straight" down tubes, while Jointer B has the offset ones. Looks like the offset is needed for proper alignment.

So... victory goes to the youngest item... again?

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Tue Feb 01, 2011 4:38 pm

I would keep the offset tubes no matter which jointer I chose.

The cutter head is a very critical item in the jointer. Bearings can be replaced but if the blades don't seat in the cutter head properly, or the shaft is bent that doesn't really matter.

It is my opinion that this decision can not be made without jointing a few feet of lumber and critically analyzing the cut. A slightly bent shaft not only introduces some vibration but it makes alignment nearly impossible.

How do the wedges look.

I suggest you pull all of the blades and all adjustment screws and start from scratch. Time consuming but important.

Wish I had your problem. It has been said that my hobby is maintaining my machines and not woodworking. That just may be (sorta) true. I do spend a lot of money on wood.

allmond2002 · Post by **allmond2002** » Tue Feb 01, 2011 4:42 pm

If Jointer A's blades had to be sharpened, then there is less "Life of blade" in Jointer A.

Does Jointer B's blades need sharpening? Or are they already sharp?

What about fence adjustment? Upgradability? There is a featherboard upgrade and a dust chute upgrade for the jointer, do either of these have such upgrades? It doesn't appear as either in the pictures, but I don't know if you have "extra parts" maybe laying around.

I would definately check the quadrant assembly on the fence, this has the possibility of having alot of wear from what I have read on the forum.