Power Station Noise

[dusty]

I started out with good intentions of taking some pix, but got sidetracked when I decided to check the condition of the oil wick for the sleeve bearings.

At this point the motor is apart and no pix have been taken.

The oil hole plugs were unusual in that they were 90 degrees apart. The output shaft end was vertical(up), and the other end horizontal(?????). The vertical(shaft end) was extremely dry(took a LOT of oil), but the horizontal(back end) would not take ANY! I decided it needed blowing out any way so I took it apart. The non-thirsty end had been allowed to dry out completely and the wadding was hard, separated and non absorbent. Currently I be trying to figure out how to get the bearing retainer back in.

I think the 90 degree difference in the oiling hole orientation is unusual(wrong?). I am at the mercy of the e-bay seller from whom I obtained it. As I understand it, he purchased is as a pile of parts and assembled it prior to selling it. A lot of things were not 'right'!

Dusty are yours that way?

I hope this catches you, JPG, before you have done a lot of work as a result of my previous post. The oil cups on my Power Station motors are offset 90° to one another. I did bad by trusting my memory.

I got up this morning and decided that since I was talking about the motors, I had better oil them.

PS What kind of motor do you have in the Power Station and which end has the dry oil wadding? If you are working on an Emerson, I have an old motor whose end cap may be in better shape. You said above that you are working on the bearing container. Does this motor have bearings or bushings?

[JPG]

[quote="dusty"]I hope this catches you, JPG, before you have done a lot of work as a result of my previous post. The oil cups on my Power Station motors are offset 90&#176]
I find that surprising! A little less so since mine was also. I do not understand why!? I initially thought they were moved by 'someone' prior to my acquiring it. I also initially attributed the dryness of the 'horizontal' positioned one to that orientation(the other one points up - which is more typical and leakage is less likely). I will probably reorient it so both point up when it goes back together.

I may have asked this before, but how far below the 'top' is the motor mounting flange? I am not sure what SS originally 'preassembled' it to but my third(fourth?) party acquistion included the motor being mounted with 4 long screws and 8 nuts/flat washers. The internal stuff was squirrely also. I have added standoffs to those screws, but still am not convinced I 'have it right'( slightly less than 2").

I thought of creating a survey thread to get a feel for 'normal' but if response is adequate here I shall not do so. If varying responses occur, I will summarize them on a thread so as to be 'discovered' by search later.

Bill: I do not think the bearing disassembly will help most folks, but I will take pix. As for wadding I have discovered that it is mostly still there albiet randomly clumped. It seems to still be absorbent so I might repack it and go on. I have not yet determined the reason for lack of oil flow into it but I predict a plugging of the oil hole. I am anticipating stuffing any remaining void with cotton and a felt washer prior to replacing the inner bearing 'cover'. The task at hand is to get the bearing retaining 'spring plate' back on after having been forcefully pried off. It has 4 corners that must be simultaneously depressed and rotated into their keeper slots.

[dusty]

My Power Station is configured exactly as it was brand new. I have never had the motor off; I had no reason to. Therefore, I feel that I am able to tell you exactly how it was "preassembled" by Shopsmith.

The motor is mounted on four 3" long carriage bolts. These carriage bolts are secured to the Power Station with four nuts and four lock washers. Then four nuts are threaded onto the bolts followed by a lock washer and then a flat washer on all four carriage bolts. These nuts are run onto the bolts 1 1/2". The motor is then installed and secured by a flat washer, lock washer and nut on each of the four carriage bolts.

I have not yet remounted the belts so I don't know how the tension will be. It should be the same since I made those stated measurements before a loosened the motor mounts.

[JPG]

My Power Station is configured exactly as it was brand new. I have never had the motor off] These nuts are run onto the bolts 1 1/2".[/B] The motor is then installed and secures by a flat washer, lock washer and nut on each of the four carriage bolts.

I have not yet remounted the belts so I don't know how the tension will be. It should be the same since I made those stated measurements before a loosened the motor mounts.

Does this mean that there is 1 1/2" remaining thread below the bottom of the nut? i.e. 1 1/2" from where to where? Just want to make sure!

[dusty]

Does this mean that there is 1 1/2" remaining thread below the bottom of the nut? i.e. 1 1/2" from where to where? Just want to make sure!

Yes, you got it.

[JPG]

Yes, you got it.

So after adding the lock and flat washers, the motor mounting flange would be about 1 5/8" below the 'top'. That is a 1/4" less than what I have previously done, and IMHO THAT was too loose! When I get the motor back together I intend to try it 'tighter'.

I need to qualify something I have previously stated. I said the center flange remains in the same position on the shaft as the ends slide in/out when the speed is adjusted. I still believe that is what it SHOULD do if everything is properly aligned. However twarn't so yesterday!!!

[dusty]

What I said about nut placement is no longer true. When I put it all back together, just now, it did not feel right or sound right.

I tightened down on the motor (more tension on motor belt).

Sorry, I was not thinking well. I did not take measurements but if that becomes of interest I can.

My Power Station is running as quiet as it ever has and it seems like it may be running a bit slower which is good. This Power Station spends most of its time powering one of the Bandsaws which I have thought was running too fast.

If only I had ordered from VXB, I'd now know how fast the Power Station is at low speed. Now I gotta wait probably two more weeks just to save $3.

My desk top computer tells me how fast/slow its five fans are spinning. If that technology exists why cann't I have the same sort of results on all of my Shopsmith shafts.

[JPG]

What I said about nut placement is no longer true. When I put it all back together, just now, it did not feel right or sound right.

I tightened down on the motor (more tension on motor belt).

Sorry, I was not thinking well. I did not take measurements but if that becomes of interest I can.

My Power Station is running as quiet as it ever has and it seems like it may be running a bit slower which is good. This Power Station spends most of its time powering one of the Bandsaws which I have thought was running too fast.

If only I had ordered from VXB, I'd now know how fast the Power Station is at low speed. Now I gotta wait probably two more weeks just to save $3.

My desk top computer tells me how fast/slow its five fans are spinning. If that technology exists why cann't I have the same sort of results on all of my Shopsmith shafts.

It exists!:D It is called a Power Pro. Stepping motors allow that! They run the speed they are 'told' to(or stall out).

Re: tension The question is how much more did you lower the motor. It makes sense re slower rpm since the motor belt is pulled further down into the pulley(variator). I am not surprised you felt the need to increase the tension. I feel mine was not tensioned enough and the motor was lower than what you measured(1 1/2" nut placement).

[JPG]

Well I finally got it back together. Bill Mayo requested pix etc. of bearing ... This will involve 2-3 posts to allow all the pix.

[ATTACH]12499[/ATTACH]
The end cap bearing 'socket'. Allows bearing to pivot.

[ATTACH]12500[/ATTACH]
Add bearing. Square plate retains bearing and tensions it. The corners must be simultaneouslt depressed and rotated into 4 grooves.

[ATTACH]12501[/ATTACH]
Retainer/flat plate spring.

[ATTACH]12502[/ATTACH]
Tool made to compress corners so it can be rotated into 'slots'. Once in slots, a shoulder prevents it coming back out.

[ATTACH]12503[/ATTACH]

Depressed and rotated into 'slot'.

[JPG]

Continuing:
[ATTACH]12504[/ATTACH]
Use SS quill as a press.

[ATTACH]12505[/ATTACH]
Retainer plate in place

[ATTACH]12506[/ATTACH]
The original wadding reinserted