Improving a Safety Measure

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dusty
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Post by dusty »

mrhart wrote:Sir, can you give me a shot of the inside of your block while not on the fence, I was trying to see more detail on the inside.
Thanks!
Yes sir, I have a couple pictures that show the back side. If these don't give you the info you need/want please ask.

[ATTACH]12762[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]12763[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]12764[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]12765[/ATTACH]

The black knob came from the gear shift on a scraped city bus.
Attachments
Crosscut Stop 004.jpg
Crosscut Stop 004.jpg (109.25 KiB) Viewed 1500 times
Crosscut Stop 005.jpg
Crosscut Stop 005.jpg (105.66 KiB) Viewed 1500 times
Crosscut Stop 006.jpg
Crosscut Stop 006.jpg (83.43 KiB) Viewed 1499 times
Crosscut Stop 007.jpg
Crosscut Stop 007.jpg (101.77 KiB) Viewed 1500 times
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mrhart
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Post by mrhart »

Thank you sir...I was needing some ideas.
Where does one aquire the nut portion for the slide?
R Hart
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

mrhart wrote:Thank you sir...I was needing some ideas.
Where does one aquire the nut portion for the slide?
Those are "t-nuts" and should be available at most any hardware store.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

dusty wrote:Those are "t-nuts" and should be available at most any hardware store.

But one like Dusty's at this store!

http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/itemfind.htm?item=514491&Submit=Find+Item
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Ed in Tampa
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Post by Ed in Tampa »

dusty wrote:I guess I should not be surprised.:rolleyes:

http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthr ... light=kick
Okay I must be as thick as a brick but I don't see why adding the bottom piece to your original stop block makes it safer.

You initial picture shows a stop block on your rip fence and your using it to guage length. From what I see using it give plenty of clearance so the cutoff doesn't wedge against the blade and fence.

On you "improvement" all you do is add another piece to the stop block which gives more clearance between the blade and fence but I would think the first clearance was sufficient.

Please explain why the additional piece makes it safer..
Ed in Tampa
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

Ed in Tampa wrote:Okay I must be as thick as a brick but I don't see why adding the bottom piece to your original stop block makes it safer.

You initial picture shows a stop block on your rip fence and your using it to guage length. From what I see using it give plenty of clearance so the cutoff doesn't wedge against the blade and fence.

On you "improvement" all you do is add another piece to the stop block which gives more clearance between the blade and fence but I would think the first clearance was sufficient.

Please explain why the additional piece makes it safer..

Because it is wider. Sufficient? Maybe, but wider is better!
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E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
charlese
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Post by charlese »

Ed in Tampa wrote:Okay I must be as thick as a brick but I don't see why adding the bottom piece to your original stop block makes it safer.

You initial picture shows a stop block on your rip fence and your using it to guage length. From what I see using it give plenty of clearance so the cutoff doesn't wedge against the blade and fence.

On you "improvement" all you do is add another piece to the stop block which gives more clearance between the blade and fence but I would think the first clearance was sufficient.

Please explain why the additional piece makes it safer..

I guess it would be safer yet if a 6" block were added to stop block. Maybe after adding a 10" block it would even be safer yet.:rolleyes:

Best idea I can think of is to not use the rip fence at all for a ripping operation!!!! Edit - Woops!!! crosscutting operation!:o
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

charlese wrote:I guess it would be safer yet if a 6" block were added to stop block. Maybe after adding a 10" block it would even be safer yet.:rolleyes:

Best idea I can think of is to not use the rip fence at all for a ripping operation!!!!
If you did not do such beautiful work, I would ignore this comment completely. I know you meant to say that you would not use the rip fence at all for a crosscut operation and I do not except for when I want several pieces exactly the same length.

I would like to know how you would control the work if you needed to get say twenty pieces all precisely the same length (27 7/8" long) and another twenty all 6 3/4" long.
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

Ed in Tampa wrote:Okay I must be as thick as a brick but I don't see why adding the bottom piece to your original stop block makes it safer.

You initial picture shows a stop block on your rip fence and your using it to guage length. From what I see using it give plenty of clearance so the cutoff doesn't wedge against the blade and fence.

On you "improvement" all you do is add another piece to the stop block which gives more clearance between the blade and fence but I would think the first clearance was sufficient.

Please explain why the additional piece makes it safer..
I don't think I can explain this so that you will understand, Ed. I am sorry. I can not do better than the pictures.

Please explain how you would go about handling this task.
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robinson46176
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Post by robinson46176 »

charlese wrote:I guess it would be safer yet if a 6" block were added to stop block. Maybe after adding a 10" block it would even be safer yet.:rolleyes:

Best idea I can think of is to not use the rip fence at all for a ripping operation!!!!



If you can (with the saw off) reach down and rotate the cut-off piece freely then you are OK. If the diagonal corners of the cut-off can contact both the blade and the fence at the same time there is increased risk of it being jammed and thrown.
I prefer a simple stop block on the table or out the other way on the miter gauge.
The reason that a lot of guys like the stop block on the fence is being able to slide it up by the blade and measure then pull it back and clamp it.
I prefer to mark the piece being cut and slide it up to the blade (saw off), align the mark to the blade, then slide the miter gauge and work piece back and place a stop right on the leading edge of the table against the end of the work piece.
I really like a sled. I have not built a new sled for my TS-3650 yet but when I do I want to make it quite wide. With it I can just use a stop block clamped to the sled. The cut-off is then carried on past the blade and can be easily and safely removed.
I have never had a sled for my SS 510 but the one Dusty showed looks very nice. They are generally nice to use but even nicer if making angle cuts since they stop miter gauge creep.



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