Sanding frame

Gene Howe · Post by **Gene Howe** » Thu Apr 21, 2011 9:44 am

Good morning.
I have a 4x24 PC belt sander that I would like to find a belt sander frame to fit.
Can anyone point me in the right direction?
Thanks.

SDSSmith · Post by **SDSSmith** » Thu Apr 21, 2011 10:14 am

Gene Howe wrote:Good morning.
I have a 4x24 PC belt sander that I would like to find a belt sander frame to fit.
Can anyone point me in the right direction?
Thanks.

Something like this?[ATTACH]12747[/ATTACH]

Gene Howe · Post by **Gene Howe** » Thu Apr 21, 2011 2:18 pm

Thanks for the reply.
More like this one.

[ATTACH]12753[/ATTACH]

SDSSmith · Post by **SDSSmith** » Thu Apr 21, 2011 5:24 pm

Seems to be an accessory for 3" sanders, but did not see any for 4".

wannabewoodworker · Post by **wannabewoodworker** » Thu Apr 21, 2011 10:03 pm

I am curious about what advantage there is to using something like that? What function does it play?

Gene Howe · Post by **Gene Howe** » Fri Apr 22, 2011 8:33 am

It prevents the gouging that often occurs and it's helpful in leveling edge glue joints.
The article here http://www.finehomebuilding.com/how-to/use-a-belt-sander-frame.aspxsanding frame, (page 2, then click "Read More") shows an adjustment knob on the frame. The author says it can be adjusted from 1/32 to 1/8. The frame discussed in the article MAY be a Dewalt item. If so, I may have to devise one to fit my PC. PC doesn't make one.
I plan several future projects involving edge/edge and subsequent face/face glue ups, finished size wider than my planer. Though I use the jointer, planer and cauls, There is often some misalignment. Infuriating!! I'm no good with a hand plane (though I'm practicing!)
In the past, I've used the beltsander, then on to the "V" sander to achieve the extreme flatness I need for the face to face glue ups.The "V" sander does a great job, but it's a very long process (many passes) to eliminate the slight irregularities left by the belt sander. My production run is usually 64 each of four 17 1/2 X 17 1/2 X 3/4 edge glued panels. Each of which need to be dead flat on both sides. That's 512 sides to be flattened!!!! A cardiovascular workout, for sure.
So, you can see I need every little bit of help I can get. The frame would, hopefully, eliminate some of the passes on the "V" sander.
I may just resign myself to building a planer set up for the router. I've been avoiding that as I don't want to spend the time building that jig.

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Sat Apr 23, 2011 2:30 am

Gene, there is an article in the latest "Shop Notes" on flattening glued up panels. The author used a hand plane, a random orbit sander, and a hand sanding block. He also showed the use of a dead blow hammer and a block while the glue is wet. He also showed hand screws to hold the ends of the boards level.

Another article - long ago - showed how to use a bet sander. First sand across the grain after making a lot of pencil marks in scribble formation across the panel. The pencil marks disappear first on the high spots. Then use the belt sander with the grain, again using pencil marks to bring out the high spots, In both cases, as soon as pencil marks disappear, stop sanding and re-mark. The most important trick is to always keep the sander moving. Never start the sander when it is sitting on the panel, and always remove the sander before turning it off. I used this method quite successfully on my first couch table and a butler table.

Gene Howe · Post by **Gene Howe** » Sat Apr 23, 2011 8:23 am

Thanks Charlese,
I use those techniques. Well, except for the hand plane.

In fact, I have several pieces of Uni-Strut I bolt across the ends and the middle of the glue ups. My problem is achieving a dead flat surface for face to face glue ups.
It's easy to get dead flat with the V sander. It just takes so darned long!! And, so many pencils.

I usually belt sand first to get the obvious high spots, (I use a straight edge to locate them) then go to the V sander.
The PC 362 is one powerful, heavy sander and hard to keep level, though.

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Sat Apr 23, 2011 7:51 pm

those wide leaded carpenter pencils worked best for me. And their lead is pretty soft, making ithe marks pretty easy to remove.