[quote="JPG40504"]BTW If you have not yet removed the motor and pan from the headstock, do so. It gets a lot lighter and you can then 'see' inside the headstock a whole lot 'gooder'!]
Ahhh brilliant! Next time i get into it that will be the first step!
Hi Jay, thanks for the great pics. It is a lot easier to work on the headstock with the motor out, that's the first thing I did, easy to turn the headstock into any postilion with the motor gone. My V's disassembled, I need to send the speed dial to get a new steel gear put in for the toasted old one. Yours looks good. That is a poor design for the gear. After seeing mine if I take another one apart I'll send the speed dial off for a new steel gear regardless of it's condition, $17 and your good for as long as you own it. I'm going to replace the bearings since its opened up. You can buy almost any size bearing from Accurate Bearing(a big wholesaler that will sell you 1 or 2 at a time if you want at the best prices I've found), fast and great service, google them for more info. Thanks again for the help with the picture posting.
calstar wrote:Hi Jay, thanks for the great pics. It is a lot easier to work on the headstock with the motor out, that's the first thing I did, easy to turn the headstock into any postilion with the motor gone. My V's disassembled, I need to send the speed dial to get a new steel gear put in for the toasted old one. Yours looks good. That is a poor design for the gear. After seeing mine if I take another one apart I'll send the speed dial off for a new steel gear regardless of it's condition, $17 and your good for as long as you own it. I'm going to replace the bearings since its opened up. You can buy almost any size bearing from Accurate Bearing(a big wholesaler that will sell you 1 or 2 at a time if you want at the best prices I've found), fast and great service, google them for more info. Thanks again for the help with the picture posting.
Brian
Thanks for the info Brian! It's been great posting up the pictures because there are alot of people who can help spot things I may miss as a newbie.
I agree with you on changing the bearings out while it's open. Might as well get the headstock in great running condtion to prevent a future tear down for maintinance! I'll check out Accurate Bearing and possibly get my dial built as well. Heck for $17 it's a no brainer!
Ok, so I removed the motor housing for ease of work and it was the best move I could have made. Simple but it eluded me . I tried to use an "easy out" to remove the allen that was stripped above the quill feed housing and had no luck. I ended drilling out the allen screw dead center hoping not to destroy the existing threads. I did go a hair to deep but it was successful. the issue I am running into is the conical washer on the shaft is stopping my removal of the housing. there is a step built into the shaft that is not allowing for me to slide it past the conical washer. Is this a normal set up? There is no notch in the washer to allow it to pass. Any ideas? Comments?
IIRC The spherical washer will clear the woodruff key, but if the key is cocked, the inside end may stick up too high. First try tapping the inside end down into the slot. If that does not work, totally remove the woodruff key. You may need to pull hard on one end to get it to move(it is a tight fit). Try to not scar it.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Well I tried to give it a tap on the high side and it didn't budge. I gave it a stronger "nudge" and it mushroomed on the end Looks like I'll have to replace it. It's abit late to make that much noise so I'll tackle it tommorow.