pen blank sander

farley · Post by **farley** » Thu Jun 16, 2011 9:32 pm

So the problem with using wood that isn't perfectly parallel or square is you can't always get the ends squared easily.

I came up with this "jig" and will see if it works in the long run. The first test went as I planned.

I used a squared piece of wood. Drilled a hole that would hold a hex headed bolt that would hold my brass tube from my pen kit. These are not normal sizes, but I did luck out for the 7mm one. A 1/4 bolt fit nice and snug. For my 10mm tubes I brought a 3/8 bolt and use the lathe mode and
put a file on it and grounded it down to fit snug.

Cut off the head and drilled into the center of the block, put the bolt into the block. also I had to make sure that my pen blank would clear the table

then clamped the block to my miter gauge, slide my glued up tube and blank over it and disc sanded it square.

MikeG · Post by **MikeG** » Fri Jun 17, 2011 8:20 am

I use something similar, a shaft through the stop rod holes of the miter gauge. I find it is easy to align the shaft to the disk by tilting the table and turning the miter gauge as the holes in the casting are not true to the face of the gauge.

For the larger tube size I use a sleeve that was designed for use with a barrel trimmer.

[ATTACH]13402[/ATTACH]

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Fri Jun 17, 2011 8:28 am

farley wrote:So the problem with using wood that isn't perfectly parallel or square is you can't always get the ends squared easily.

I came up with this "jig" and will see if it works in the long run. The first test went as I planned.

I used a squared piece of wood. Drilled a hole that would hold a hex headed bolt that would hold my brass tube from my pen kit. These are not normal sizes, but I did luck out for the 7mm one. A 1/4 bolt fit nice and snug. For my 10mm tubes I brought a 3/8 bolt and use the lathe mode and
put a file on it and grounded it down to fit snug.

Cut off the head and drilled into the center of the block, put the bolt into the block. also I had to make sure that my pen blank would clear the table

then clamped the block to my miter gauge, slide my glued up tube and blank over it and disc sanded it square.

Very innovative, farley! I would suggest, however, that you elongate the block that you have clamped to the miter gauge. This would enlongate the area that is holding the shaft and I believe make it more stable while sanding. Good Job!

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Fri Jun 17, 2011 8:33 am

MikeG wrote:I use something similar, a shaft through the stop rod holes of the miter gauge. I find it is easy to align the shaft to the disk by tilting the table and turning the miter gauge as the holes in the casting are not true to the face of the gauge.

For the larger tube size I use a sleeve that was designed for use with a barrel trimmer.

[ATTACH]13402[/ATTACH]

Equally innovative, mike. This is just another example of the versatility of a standard Mark V. It (and you) are truly versatile.

farley · Post by **farley** » Fri Jun 17, 2011 9:39 am

actually Dusty i was going to shorten the bolt and move the block to the left. thanks for the alternative.

terrydowning · Post by **terrydowning** » Fri Jun 17, 2011 11:52 am

farley, I made similar jigs for my bench top disc sander. I use that sander all the time and having a separate sander is a must in my shop. Maybe someday I'll have multiple SS so I can set one up as a sanding station. In the meantime I'll use by bench top.

Very innovative for both of you. Nice use of the equipment you have.