Lathe Chisel Sharpening Guide

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sat Jun 25, 2011 10:13 am

The Sharpening Guide is on sale right now. I have one of these but have used it very little because I do very little turning. That is about to change so I better start by learning to sharpen.

However, there is a Shopsmith photo image featuring the Guide that always attracts my attention when I see it.

Why does Shopsmith show this when there is no way to attach the Guide to the extension table (unless you create a way).

Obviously, the user who needs this must drill a hole in the table - right?

damagi · Post by **damagi** » Sat Jun 25, 2011 10:25 am

dusty wrote:The Sharpening Guide is on sale right now. I have one of these but have used it very little because I do very little turning. That is about to change so I better start by learning to sharpen.

However, there is a Shopsmith http://sn140w.snt140.mail.live.com/default.aspx?wa=wsignin1.0#%21/mail/InboxLight.aspx?n=704129787%21fid=1&fav=1&n=1575039895&mid=c18931a0-9ea7-11e0-8f9a-00237de33944&fv=1 featuring the Guide that always attracts my attention when I see it.

Why does Shopsmith show this when there is no way to attach the Guide to the extension table (unless you create a way).

The manual for the guide features instructions on where to drill the extension tables for this purpose.

I had a guide for a while. It worked just fine, but I found that the concept in general for lathe tools just doesn't make sense.

Think about it - when turning something, you will most likely have to sharpen your tools at least 2-3 times. Lets assume that you put the sanding disk on the accessory end and mount the guide using the extension table. The only way this would work without interrupting your current setup would be if you were doing bowl turning. If you are turning between centers then you would need to move the headstock and unmount the workpiece.

Granted, if you have multiple shopsmiths then its not an issue. However, I decided to go with a dedicated grinder setup. If you are paying full price from shopsmith for the guide, you should really consider doubling your investment and getting a grinding setup w/ wolverine from woodcraft. I paid around $200 for mine (used). If you are getting the shopsmith guide from ebay or something, then that changes the economics a bit.

Oh, and there are some hidden costs too. Remember that in general once you use an abrassive on metal you should't use it on wood again. Also remember that you can't use the velcro backed setup when sharpening. Therefore you probably an extra sanding disc dedicated to sharpening. Once you start considering the hassle and true costs, the dedicated setups become much more attractive.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sat Jun 25, 2011 10:52 am

damagi wrote:The manual for the guide features instructions on where to drill the extension tables for this purpose.

I had a guide for a while. It worked just fine, but I found that the concept in general for lathe tools just doesn't make sense.

Think about it - when turning something, you will most likely have to sharpen your tools at least 2-3 times. Lets assume that you put the sanding disk on the accessory end and mount the guide using the extension table. The only way this would work without interrupting your current setup would be if you were doing bowl turning. If you are turning between centers then you would need to move the headstock and unmount the workpiece.

Granted, if you have multiple shopsmiths then its not an issue. However, I decided to go with a dedicated grinder setup. If you are paying full price from shopsmith for the guide, you should really consider doubling your investment and getting a grinding setup w/ wolverine from woodcraft. I paid around $200 for mine (used). If you are getting the shopsmith guide from ebay or something, then that changes the economics a bit.

Oh, and there are some hidden costs too. Remember that in general once you use an abrassive on metal you should't use it on wood again. Also remember that you can't use the velcro backed setup when sharpening. Therefore you probably an extra sanding disc dedicated to sharpening. Once you start considering the hassle and true costs, the dedicated setups become much more attractive.

Good discussion. Thank you. I'll have to think about this some more. However, I have no documentation that came with my Sharpening Guide (not to say that I did not receive it, only that I no longer have it).

AFTER THOUGHT: Look at the image I posted with this thread. Is there a hole right in the middle of that extension table?

SDSSmith · Post by **SDSSmith** » Sat Jun 25, 2011 12:11 pm

The guide should have come with drilling instructions. To avoid drilling a table, the traveling academy instructor recommended mounting the guide to plywood and clamping the assembly to the extension table. However, if you would like the details for drilling, let us know.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sat Jun 25, 2011 12:34 pm

SDSSmith wrote:The guide should have come with drilling instructions. To avoid drilling a table, the traveling academy instructor recommended mounting the guide to plywood and clamping the assembly to the extension table. However, if you would like the details for drilling, let us know.

Thank you very much, Rob. This is one of the characteristics of this forum that makes it so great. I have already received two PDF copies of abbreviated instructions and the drilling guide.

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Sat Jun 25, 2011 12:41 pm

damagi wrote:..
Think about it - when turning something, you will most likely have to sharpen your tools at least 2-3 times. Lets assume that you put the sanding disk on the accessory end and mount the guide using the extension table. The only way this would work without interrupting your current setup would be if you were doing bowl turning. If you are turning between centers then you would need to move the headstock and unmount the workpiece..

Have to respectively disagree here! The lathe tools once sharpened with the sanding disk will keep the same bevel for a long time. I do agree with multiple sharpenings during a turning job, but grinding away more metal shortens the life of the tools and is wasteful. Stropping with a leather wheel or strip, treated with an abrasive made for stropping is a much better choice than grinding.

Leather stropping wheels made for hand drills will easily mount in a chuck on the axillary spindle. Also a strip sander equipped with a leather belt is perfect for stropping. On the Axillary side of the headstock the belt will run upward = perfect for stropping. Correction - The belt will run upward only with using reverse with the PowerPro.

"Tandy Leather" stocks leather perfect for stropping when mounted to a board. This is where I bought mine - used for stropping hand carving tools.

ldh · Post by **ldh** » Sat Jun 25, 2011 2:07 pm

Dusty,
This is the simple jig I use to avoid drilling holes in my extension table.

ldh

[ATTACH]13463[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]13464[/ATTACH]

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sat Jun 25, 2011 2:35 pm

charlese wrote: . . .
Also a strip sander equipped with a leather belt is perfect for stropping. On the Axillary side of the headstock the belt will run upward = perfect for stropping.

. . .

Sure about that? Quill side maybe!;)

Ed in Tampa · Post by **Ed in Tampa** » Sat Jun 25, 2011 2:58 pm

I have the sharpening guide but I would save my money and buy a strip sander with accompanying attachments for sharpening lathe chisels.

I think I stated this before but I have a good friend that earned a living sharpening tools, everything from tiny scissors to 20" saw blades. He sold everything to retire and I asked him what he kept to sharpen his own tools.

He was most definite he kept his strip sander. He said this tools produced the fastest, sharpest edge with least amount of time, effort and metal lost.

Since he said that I have coveted a stripe sander.

damagi · Post by **damagi** » Sat Jun 25, 2011 5:49 pm

charlese wrote:Have to respectively disagree here! The lathe tools once sharpened with the sanding disk will keep the same bevel for a long time. I do agree with multiple sharpenings during a turning job, but grinding away more metal shortens the life of the tools and is wasteful. Stropping with a leather wheel or strip, treated with an abrasive made for stropping is a much better choice than grinding.

Leather stropping wheels made for hand drills will easily mount in a chuck on the axillary spindle. Also a strip sander equipped with a leather belt is perfect for stropping. On the Axillary side of the headstock the belt will run upward = perfect for stropping.

"Tandy Leather" stocks leather perfect for stropping when mounted to a board. This is where I bought mine - used for stropping hand carving tools.

Valid point. Certainly the goal is to remove the least metal as possible while achieving a sufficient edge for turning.

However, I am a little hesitant to believe that every major turner who talks about sharpening lathe tools shows using grinders to sharpen.

I agree that using the strip sander is an excellent option. However, you are again in a situation of a changeover during your turning...meaning a dismount/remount of the workpiece. Again, if you have a powerstation or a mini/shorty then its not a big deal.