Hand sanding on the shopsmith? or One of the things I like about my old 500

reible · Post by **reible** » Fri Aug 26, 2011 9:03 pm

Some days like today are what got me to post this a while back:

"So after having my two 520's you would think I would be happy, well I was but then I began missing my 500, I have a lot of jigs for it, I miss being able to use the side of the main table as a straight edge and well other reasons that get to much to post about. The next machine I got for myself was a 500. The machine after that a 500. We will not get in to 10ER's."

I cut up 25 "trailing hooks", they are for use with GRR-Ripper ( http://www.microjig.com ) not that it makes any difference what they are for. Picture 1/4" plywood cut in to 2-1/8 tall by 1-1/4 wide pieces that are sacrificial parts that the saw blade cuts through. Don't worry you will be seeing pictures soon.

Keep in mind this is done with the power cord unplugged.

First let us look at the old 500 rip fence, and please note the hole in the top of it. I'm not sure of the proper name for it but is often thought of as the place the mortising hold-down fits in. The newer fences do not have that hole, and I miss it.

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Next you need the tail stock chuck adapter (505603) seen sitting among the trailing hook blanks.

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The sanding disk comes next.

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As can be seen the tail stock chuck adapter also fits the sanding disk and the whole assembly fits in the rip fence hole.

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Keep in mind the rip fence hole is just a hole while the tail stock adapter is a MT-2 taper. However they work together quite well for projects like this.

Maybe it is time to answer a couple questions, like why am I doing this?

Sometimes it is easier to hold the work piece then it is to hold the sandpaper. This is one of those times. Some times a power sander is really overkill, This is one of those times. Some times simple is just simple and this is a simple task that can be done as shown... give it a try sometime.

Take a look at the parts that need processing, note the condition of the edges, not as clean as they could be right? They don't have to be perfect but you don't want to get splinters from them either.

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Next post we will see how this all comes together.

Ed

reible · Post by **reible** » Fri Aug 26, 2011 9:28 pm

The whole process goes really fast most of the time. I do the corner edges by holding the piece at an angle and drawing it towards me. The edges corners require 8 pulls, one for each corner edge.

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Then I finish by doing the 4 edges.

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Ed

reible · Post by **reible** » Fri Aug 26, 2011 9:32 pm

Here you can see how things are going about halfway though the process.

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Then when it was done.

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This is about all I have for you so I'm up for questions if you have any.

Ed

pennview · Post by **pennview** » Sat Aug 27, 2011 4:01 pm

You could simply put your 510/520 in drill press mode with the headstock positioned as low as it will go, and then mount the sanding disk on the auxiliary spindle of the headstock.

reible · Post by **reible** » Sun Aug 28, 2011 12:54 am

You make a good point here, as far as a sanding solution that would work.

I have done that too but what makes this really work for me is the table being there to put parts on or other tools, just makes me feel more at home since this is something I have done in the past and missed having.

There are other options which I have played with on the 520 that allow this arrangement. I've been looking for an adapter I made a while back that is basic by nature, a 2 x 4 that mounts to the rip fence via t-nuts and has a 5/8" hole drill on the top side. So far it has not shown up so I can't take a picture of it, if the description is not clear I could make a drawing or I could spend more time looking for the wood one.

Ed

pennview wrote:You could simply put your 510/520 in drill press mode with the headstock positioned as low as it will go, and then mount the sanding disk on the auxiliary spindle of the headstock.

Shop_Smith_Poppi · Post by **Shop_Smith_Poppi** » Sun Aug 28, 2011 3:07 am

not that it makes any difference what they are for. Picture 1/4" plywood cut in to 2-1/8 tall by 1-1/4 wide pieces that are sacrificial parts that the saw blade cuts through. Don't worry you will be seeing pictures soon.

sacrificial parts for what?

pennview · Post by **pennview** » Sun Aug 28, 2011 7:34 am

Ed, something similar to that gizmo you're making on that other thread could be used. Drill an appropriately sized hole in the wood to accept your morse taper adapter and then mount it to the fence with those t-nuts.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sun Aug 28, 2011 11:19 am

Shop_Smith_Poppi wrote:sacrificial parts for what?

Cross cut sled/box joint jig? That's my guess and I am sticking to it!;)

reible · Post by **reible** » Sun Aug 28, 2011 1:37 pm

Fixed the link in the first post, sorry I didn't check it before when I first posted.

You should now be able to get to the information there to see the information on the GRR=Ripper. They pretty much explain how the system works and some where at the forums I did a review of them.

Having said that, the parts that I was demonstrating the sanding technique on were what they call a "trailing hook". During use the saw blade will pass through the hook and after "time" the hook will no longer function and needs to be replaced. The purpose of the hook is to provide support on each side of the material during the rip process as it continues after the blade has passed.

Here are a few pictures showing the provided (never been used condition) hook, then some shots to help make it clear where the replacement ones I had been working on go.

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Hope that helps.

Ed