Router Table, Opinions Please

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sun Sep 16, 2007 12:23 pm

paul

I think 555995 and 521962 might be one in the same. When I attempt to pull up 521962 (shopsmith.com) I get 555995 as an alternate. Don't know which one is the original.

555995 is shown on page 46 of the Father's Day catalog.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sun Sep 16, 2007 1:01 pm

As a temporary test bed, I have turned the router table around by turning the extension table around. This allows me to operate the router off the left end of the Shopsmith and to get a feel for the fence and feather boards.

If this proves satisfactory and SAFE, I will swap the rails.

Please comment on the two photos. Do both represent equally proper router techniques with respect to rotation and direction of feed?

I do realize that use of feather boards is preferred.

reible · Post by **reible** » Sun Sep 16, 2007 2:32 pm

Hi,

What you have set up is fine. The feather boards are optional.

The router bit will tend to keep the stock against the fence by the way it cuts. The harder part is making sure it does not rise up and to make sure you never have your hand over the bit. If you happen to have the auxilliary fence (555653) you can attach that to your rip fence and use the feather boards to hold the stock down. (If you don't have the 555653 you can build something like it).

The small piece you have shown should be done with care. First the bit has to much open space around it. Either a smaller plastic insert or the use of brass inserts will fix that. Then you can use the safety kit push stick and push blocks.

I still don't see how you plan to do stock edging, the rip fence is not going to work for that....

Ed

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sun Sep 16, 2007 3:33 pm

reible wrote: I still don't see how you plan to do stock edging, the rip fence is not going to work for that....
Ed

If what you mean by stock edging is doing work where the blade should be partially buried in the fence....I think I have that covered.

Did you not show one solution (two options) in one of your photos earlier in this thread? ...except that there is no provision for depth of cut fence offset.

I also have an adjustable split fence that I need to adapt to this larger table.

With a split fence, is everything else (rotation, feed direction, etc) the same as with the rip fence?

Thanks for the comments, folks. I need all the help I can get.

reible · Post by **reible** » Sun Sep 16, 2007 7:25 pm

dusty wrote:If what you mean by stock edging is doing work where the blade should be partially buried in the fence....I think I have that covered.

Did you not show one solution (two options) in one of your photos earlier in this thread? ...except that there is no provision for depth of cut fence offset.

I also have an adjustable split fence that I need to adapt to this larger table.

With a split fence, is everything else (rotation, feed direction, etc) the same as with the rip fence?

Thanks for the comments, folks. I need all the help I can get.

I'll be waiting to see your fence solution(s), a very critical component. Something that has been holding me up from do this sort of thing... well yes you could spend the $188 and get the shopsmith one but....

Yes the use of any fence is done the same way as long as you mount it the way you have shown everything stays the same.

Ed

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sun Sep 16, 2007 8:33 pm

Thank you, sir knight. You may have kept me from eating my kickback.

james.miller · Post by **james.miller** » Sun Sep 16, 2007 11:29 pm

I have basically that router table as part of the Incra Ultimate Router Table Fence System. With the Incra it is mounted on the right side of the SS with the feather boards on the left side of the router table.

My personal opinion is that without the Incra Fence I would probably mount it so the feather boards were outboard and the fence inboard to make it more convenient to use the router table. Before changing anything I would try using it in the position you have it in to see how well it works.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sun Sep 23, 2007 4:43 pm

ed

This is my immediate (no further delays permitted) solution to my router table fence requirement. I did change inserts for one with a smaller hole.

I am in the process of developing one with a 7" vertical backboard, dust collector system and sliding fence panels (left/right) to create the split fence.

The hang up is a method of attaching it to the table. I would like to eliminate clamps for this application if I can.

I would sure like to see a Sawdust Session that would cover how SS intended for the table (555995) to be used. I hope their only solution would NOT BE to utilize the Pro Fence (521963).

reible · Post by **reible** » Mon Sep 24, 2007 10:32 pm

dusty wrote:ed

This is my immediate (no further delays permitted) solution to my router table fence requirement. I did change inserts for one with a smaller hole.

I am in the process of developing one with a 7" vertical backboard, dust collector system and sliding fence panels (left/right) to create the split fence.

The hang up is a method of attaching it to the table. I would like to eliminate clamps for this application if I can.

I would sure like to see a Sawdust Session that would cover how SS intended for the table (555995) to be used. I hope their only solution would NOT BE to utilize the Pro Fence (521963).

I see you have an idea of reusing some other hardware for your table. The issue here is going to be how to mount it and let it move inches back and forth... make sure you post some pictures of how you end up solving this.

While some solutions may exist it sure would be nice for Nick or someone to do a video of what they might have as solutions.... I'm sure the intent is to have you buy the additional hardware.

Keep us up to date.

Ed