Shopsmith Forums

Hey, Dusty. I'm curious to see if you have to do any adjustment for drift using the WoodSlicer. I did a comparisonawhile back between the SS 5/8 blade and the WoodSlicer, and had to adjust my fence for drift when using the WS.

Bud

bffulgham wrote:Hey, Dusty. I'm curious to see if you have to do any adjustment for drift using the WoodSlicer. I did a comparisonawhile back between the SS 5/8 blade and the WoodSlicer, and had to adjust my fence for drift when using the WS.

Bud

I will have to do more resawing before I can give a definitive answer. All I have done to date is cut up some cutoffs into smaller cutoffs.

With the limited testing done already, however, it does not look as though I will have to do any drift compensation with this blade. I did not do a drift test. I just mounted the rip fence and started cutting. The resulting pieces were cut straight (no wobble and no bow).

Your images of cuts made with the Shopsmith 5/8" blade look very similar to mine as do the cuts made with the Woodslicer.

Dusty
After you accomplish your task please go back to the blade that had the failure and let us see if perhaps more or less tension, placement of the blade guard, change in guide blocks, and etc. changes anything.

I have seen the exact failure you first pictured and it was eliminated without a change of blade.

I do remember you mentioned that the blade was kinked and that might be the whole problem but the frequency of the highs and lows would suggest otherwise.

If you have time I think it would be interesting and informative to all.

Ed in Tampa wrote:Dusty
After you accomplish your task please go back to the blade that had the failure and let us see if perhaps more or less tension, placement of the blade guard, change in guide blocks, and etc. changes anything.

I have seen the exact failure you first pictured and it was eliminated without a change of blade.

I do remember you mentioned that the blade was kinked and that might be the whole problem but the frequency of the highs and lows would suggest otherwise.

If you have time I think it would be interesting and informative to all.

I will do that.

bffulgham wrote:Hey, Dusty. I'm curious to see if you have to do any adjustment for drift using the WoodSlicer. I did a comparisonawhile back between the SS 5/8 blade and the WoodSlicer, and had to adjust my fence for drift when using the WS.

Bud

I am not through with this test/experiment BUT

I attempt to perform a drift test but I am unsure of the results. I drew a straight line on a piece of wood (2x2) about 30" long. I attemted to follow it and thought I was. About 2/3 of the way I stopped and set the fence to what appeared to be a drift angle.

I then attempted to resaw that same piece of wood, cutting off 1/16" sliver. The cutoff was very inconsistent in thickness.

Disappointed, I put the fence back on and set it for square (parallel to the blade). I then set for a 3/32" thick cutoff (between the fence and stock) and was successful (I think).

Measuring the thickness at 3" intervals, the maximum deviation was .003".

I think the blade and fence and bandsaw are working fine. I believe the issues are with my technique.

QUESTION: When resawing, should the resultant piece (the thin stock) be between the fence and blade or on the other side of the blade?

Dusty
If I remember correctly in the traveling Academy they mentioned Bandsaw drift in passing and I left with the understanding if the saw was set up correctly blade drift was not a problem. (again my memory is based on attending academy probably 25 years ago).

I know everyone and his brother when talking about bandsaws talk blade drift but again I know the Academy instructor using a cast iron table used the SS miter gauges set at 90 degrees (I think) repeatedly cut full width/depth slivers from a piece of wood that were thin enough for light to be seen through them.

Sounds familiar! In 2008 I built myself a super-duper variable-position, variable-height, convex Resaw Guide. Only problem? It doesn't do any better than the basic fence; in fact I always mess up and it does worse. When I have a decent blade, I just lock that stock fence parallel to the grooves of the aluminum table, and cut resaws with no thought of drift.

The Shopsmith special has a good pic of what I think you are asking for Dusty. Most videos I've seen on resawing show the same type of set up. The thin piece is usually next to a fence. Some fences are tall. I just listened to the video. Good luck.


http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/specials/7DU305.htm
Fence Resawing Guide

4-1/2" tall resawing guide attaches to the T-Slot in the fence face. Its gently curved face allows you to follow a line that you've drawn down the top edge of the board you're resawing - allowing you to compensate for the blade lead as you go. The Pros all agree that these are clearly the best style resawing fences available.

I have been using the upgrades included in the special link I am posting for some years and find them highly worthwhile, especially the re-sawing guide. Check it out. Oh yes this is today's email special. Jim

http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/spec ... pn=WQVVPQY

If the re-saw surface is not good enough after all the effort you have made, you might try jointing the outside surface before each re-saw. That way at least one side will be good for gluing as is and the other side can be sanded after glue-up.

I applaud your persistence! I think that we all have learned something about better ways to work.

Forrest