jsburger wrote:Ed in Tampa wrote:I hope when this thread is completed someone will summarize the information.
For what it is worth I can switch my Aux table from the left to right and have the tubes line up on my 520. I aligned it as Nick taught us back in a saw dust session.
If you are talking about the connector tubes between the tables then yes. They will almost always fit since the hole in the rails is slightly larger than the tube and the tubes are not perfectly straight so you can rotate them to start them in the rail.
We are talking about putting a straight edge on the table tops and having them co-planer from end to end when you switch ends without any external forces.
In this case I think the discussion is more about figuring out the mechanics and the geometry of what is going on rather than saying the accuracy of the SS is inadequate. I think we can all agree that the SS accuracy is perfectly adequate regardless of this discussion.
If you use stop collars on the Extension Tables, you may be having the same experience that I did yesterday.
I aligned the Extension Table to the Main Table with the Headstock moved all the way to the right and with connector tubes inserted into the rails. Everything looked good so I tightened the nuts that secure the Extension Table to the Extension Table Base (504273). With that done, I moved the Extension Table to the other end, slide the Headstock and Carriage to the left and checked for level (coplanar table tops).
No cigar.
The Extension Table was about 1/2" - 3/4" too high. Back to the other end with the Extension Table. It checks out fine. Tables check level with the Wixey. A straight edge across the tables looks good. The stop collar is tight in the correct location. Confused! I move the Extension Table back to the left side and recheck. Same problem. Still confused, I decided to go to bed.
Started the next day with the same results. Nope, this has got to be operator error. Everything checks and that can't be. Something does not check. Got that, John.
OPERATOR ERROR. It has to be.
Break the entire system down and start over.
The very first thing you need to do is validate the tables and then square the Main Table to the blade. Do this meticulously. It is absolutely imperative that the Main Table be square to the blade (no tilt) and that the miter tracks be parallel to the blade (no skew).
Next I would mount an Extension Table in the right hand side and loosen all four of the nuts securing the table. Make the table loose enough to move around. Set it for a height that approximates that of the Main Table. Side the Carriage to the right so that the right edge of the Main Table almost touched the left hand side of the Extension Table. Slide the front extension tube into the rails of both the extension table and the main table. Tighten the thumb screws on the rails. Now do the same with the rear side. At this point, the tables should be co-planar as this is established by the rails and the extension tubes. All that needs to be done is to position the Extension Table Base vertically (if it is not already there) and secures all of the nuts and bolts that hold the Extension Table. I now use a stop collar on the Extension Table Bases to establish this height. John taught me that during this thread.
If this has been done correctly, you can move this Extension Table to the left side, slide the Headstock and Carriage to the left and insert the Extension Tubes. The Extension Tubes should slide FREELY into the rails. If there is ANY binding, something is not correct.
All that is left to do is another Extension Table for the other end. If this went well, the Extension Tables can be used at either end. Some minor tweaking may be needed depending on how picky you are.
Start with the Main Table total alignment and end with a verification that that alignment is still dead on.
Yes, you need to loosen the stop collars before you attempt to make any table height adjustments.