Joyner Off-Center Jig
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Joyner Off-Center Jig
This is the jig that is sold here.
http://www.nilesbottlestoppers.com/Pendant-chucks.html
Before I can do a proper review I think that we all need to understand just what this jig is and then go from there.
Think of this as ground school before you get you pilots license if you will. For the purpose of this we need to take a look first at the plate with the off-center holes. The center hole is of course centered on the plate and gives you no off set. The other holes provide different distances of off-set. This is a rear view, keep that in mind as we move forward.
[ATTACH]25135[/ATTACH]
The holes are numbered so you can identify them. I don't recall a listing that gives the amount of off-set verses the #, perhaps to keep some proprietary information out of everyone's hands?
For the purpose of this thread I'm going to assume the following.
Hole number Radius
#2 3/16
#3 7/16
#8 3/4
#4 1
#5 17/32
#6 9/16
#7 11/16
#8 13/16
Now I not saying those are the actual numbers......... but those will be the numbers we use in this thread.
Now to illustrate how this works, and it should be quite obvious at the center position the work piece is spinning about the center just like if you had used a normal face plate. If we say were to now change to location #2 we are now off-set from the center by 3/16". If you look at this:
[ATTACH]25136[/ATTACH]
You can now imagine that the center is where smaller inside circle is shown. Each and every time you change to a different off-set number you do two things, first you change the distance from the center and second the new center now becomes where the hole is located on the plate. This next picture you can see the results of where the #3 would locate the center. (I've left the #2 center where it was and just added the new center.)
[ATTACH]25137[/ATTACH]
I should also point out that we are looking at this as it would be mounted on that lathe and the workpiece was in front of us.
We will do another one, this time we will go to #6 and add yet another location. As you can see the location again moves the center and distance out.
[ATTACH]25138[/ATTACH]
One last time, this time we will add #4.
[ATTACH]25140[/ATTACH]
More coming but if you don't understand what is happening let me know because other wise I'll be moving on and it only gets worse if you haven't figured this part out.
Ed
http://www.nilesbottlestoppers.com/Pendant-chucks.html
Before I can do a proper review I think that we all need to understand just what this jig is and then go from there.
Think of this as ground school before you get you pilots license if you will. For the purpose of this we need to take a look first at the plate with the off-center holes. The center hole is of course centered on the plate and gives you no off set. The other holes provide different distances of off-set. This is a rear view, keep that in mind as we move forward.
[ATTACH]25135[/ATTACH]
The holes are numbered so you can identify them. I don't recall a listing that gives the amount of off-set verses the #, perhaps to keep some proprietary information out of everyone's hands?
For the purpose of this thread I'm going to assume the following.
Hole number Radius
#2 3/16
#3 7/16
#8 3/4
#4 1
#5 17/32
#6 9/16
#7 11/16
#8 13/16
Now I not saying those are the actual numbers......... but those will be the numbers we use in this thread.
Now to illustrate how this works, and it should be quite obvious at the center position the work piece is spinning about the center just like if you had used a normal face plate. If we say were to now change to location #2 we are now off-set from the center by 3/16". If you look at this:
[ATTACH]25136[/ATTACH]
You can now imagine that the center is where smaller inside circle is shown. Each and every time you change to a different off-set number you do two things, first you change the distance from the center and second the new center now becomes where the hole is located on the plate. This next picture you can see the results of where the #3 would locate the center. (I've left the #2 center where it was and just added the new center.)
[ATTACH]25137[/ATTACH]
I should also point out that we are looking at this as it would be mounted on that lathe and the workpiece was in front of us.
We will do another one, this time we will go to #6 and add yet another location. As you can see the location again moves the center and distance out.
[ATTACH]25138[/ATTACH]
One last time, this time we will add #4.
[ATTACH]25140[/ATTACH]
More coming but if you don't understand what is happening let me know because other wise I'll be moving on and it only gets worse if you haven't figured this part out.
Ed
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Next we will look at what would happen if you picked #3 and started cutting wood. This next illustration shows the center being at location #3 and then making cut with a radius of 1" away. Only part of the time you are getting a cut on the project, the rest is "cutting air".
[ATTACH]25142[/ATTACH]
Next we will make a cut that has a radius of .75".
[ATTACH]25143[/ATTACH]
Next we will add a cut that has a .5" radius.
[ATTACH]25144[/ATTACH]
As a review, the center is located at #3 and we have made three cuts all from that location to create what is seen above.
What might happen if we then added yet another cut but this time we move to position #7 and made it a 1 inch radius.
[ATTACH]25145[/ATTACH]
Now for me this is getting to busy so let's imagine that we can add back the wood and undo a couple of the cuts. I've also added the #7 center location.
[ATTACH]25146[/ATTACH]
That might even work as a pendant.
Because of the way the holes have to spread out you end up with some non-symmetric yet art full designs. Keep in mind at this point we have just been using the off-center function of the tool.
More to come.
Ed
[ATTACH]25142[/ATTACH]
Next we will make a cut that has a radius of .75".
[ATTACH]25143[/ATTACH]
Next we will add a cut that has a .5" radius.
[ATTACH]25144[/ATTACH]
As a review, the center is located at #3 and we have made three cuts all from that location to create what is seen above.
What might happen if we then added yet another cut but this time we move to position #7 and made it a 1 inch radius.
[ATTACH]25145[/ATTACH]
Now for me this is getting to busy so let's imagine that we can add back the wood and undo a couple of the cuts. I've also added the #7 center location.
[ATTACH]25146[/ATTACH]
That might even work as a pendant.
Because of the way the holes have to spread out you end up with some non-symmetric yet art full designs. Keep in mind at this point we have just been using the off-center function of the tool.
More to come.
Ed
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Now to add a bit of twist to things we will add in the function of the indexing. The indexing plate has a set of holes that allow changes in location about the center in 15 degree increments. These 24 locations then allow 0, 15,30,45,60,75,90 well you get the idea.
These can be useful in creating all sorts of designs. If we start out with the jig mounted at the center location and then have the 0,0 location we can get something like this:
[ATTACH]25147[/ATTACH]
This is clearly something that you could do without the off-set or indexing feature. To spice it up a bit lets do an off-set change to location #2 and then set the index to 0, 90, 180, 270 degrees off and made 1/2" radius cuts.
[ATTACH]25148[/ATTACH]
By then changing the radius to say 1" it would look like this.
[ATTACH]25149[/ATTACH]
By changing the location of the center (off-set) and then changing the rotation you get ever changing patterns. For example if we off- set to # 7 and then make a cut then rotate 180 degrees with a the same 1" radius we see this.
[ATTACH]25150[/ATTACH]
However if we change the rotation like this:
[ATTACH]25151[/ATTACH]
So how cool is that?
Yes more to come.
Ed
These can be useful in creating all sorts of designs. If we start out with the jig mounted at the center location and then have the 0,0 location we can get something like this:
[ATTACH]25147[/ATTACH]
This is clearly something that you could do without the off-set or indexing feature. To spice it up a bit lets do an off-set change to location #2 and then set the index to 0, 90, 180, 270 degrees off and made 1/2" radius cuts.
[ATTACH]25148[/ATTACH]
By then changing the radius to say 1" it would look like this.
[ATTACH]25149[/ATTACH]
By changing the location of the center (off-set) and then changing the rotation you get ever changing patterns. For example if we off- set to # 7 and then make a cut then rotate 180 degrees with a the same 1" radius we see this.
[ATTACH]25150[/ATTACH]
However if we change the rotation like this:
[ATTACH]25151[/ATTACH]
So how cool is that?
Yes more to come.
Ed
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Here is one that I liked. By playing with off-center and rotation a simple happy face.
[ATTACH]25152[/ATTACH]
Or how about a two hole button by simply removing the bottom arc??
Of course you can add variations by how you cut the shapes, wider, thinner, deeper, etc. You can also use other elements as you see fit. Ruth has 444,000 designs listed but by varying things with say a through hole in the happy face gives you another look, or making the smile wider, thinner etc. I mean the possibilities!
So my next post will deal with some of the facts of owning one of these and what I have found thus far. I'll also mention a few things that I plan on trying as time permits.
Ed
[ATTACH]25152[/ATTACH]
Or how about a two hole button by simply removing the bottom arc??
Of course you can add variations by how you cut the shapes, wider, thinner, deeper, etc. You can also use other elements as you see fit. Ruth has 444,000 designs listed but by varying things with say a through hole in the happy face gives you another look, or making the smile wider, thinner etc. I mean the possibilities!
So my next post will deal with some of the facts of owning one of these and what I have found thus far. I'll also mention a few things that I plan on trying as time permits.
Ed
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- ScreenHunter_135 May. 25 19.46sc.jpg (30.93 KiB) Viewed 3797 times
I would start by reading this thread:
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=14627
You have several options to pick from, a lot will depend on what you might already have or how much you are willing to spend. Sometime this next week I will have another version to test, my design and custom made to fit right on the 5/8" shaft.
I've seen the videos but it was months ago so I will have to have re-watch, I think in one of them he adds yet another variable by not having the pendent mounted flat??? or was that another video??
I'm just getting into this so I have a lot to learn and am looking forward to it.
Ed
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=14627
You have several options to pick from, a lot will depend on what you might already have or how much you are willing to spend. Sometime this next week I will have another version to test, my design and custom made to fit right on the 5/8" shaft.
I've seen the videos but it was months ago so I will have to have re-watch, I think in one of them he adds yet another variable by not having the pendent mounted flat??? or was that another video??
I'm just getting into this so I have a lot to learn and am looking forward to it.
Ed
skou wrote:Ed, do they have a provision for mounting this on a 5/8ths straight (Shopsmith) spindle?
Or, do we need to find some kind of adapter.
I watched Cpt Eddie's video, very helpful!
steve
I think I'm about done for the night.
I think I should also point out the simulations were done using a spreadsheet that is also available. You enter the data and it draws it for you.
http://www.nilesbottlestoppers.com/Pend ... 20v4.0.xls
Instructions at
http://www.nilesbottlestoppers.com/pend ... ftware.pdf
You can go to Ruth's site and find her links if for some reason mine don't work.
I'm using this in open office and it works fine.
Please if you download the spreadsheet don't spend all night playing with all the options, you need your sleep so you can spend all tomorrow playing with a few more of them.
Ed
I think I should also point out the simulations were done using a spreadsheet that is also available. You enter the data and it draws it for you.
http://www.nilesbottlestoppers.com/Pend ... 20v4.0.xls
Instructions at
http://www.nilesbottlestoppers.com/pend ... ftware.pdf
You can go to Ruth's site and find her links if for some reason mine don't work.
I'm using this in open office and it works fine.
Please if you download the spreadsheet don't spend all night playing with all the options, you need your sleep so you can spend all tomorrow playing with a few more of them.
Ed
Summing up jig is really quite easy to do, it allows you to do more different designs then I'll ever have time to do. Having a combination of both off-set and rotation is simply amazing. This is every thing I was hoping for.
Keep in mind this is not intended for turning 14" bowls or the likes. It is for making pendants, bottle stoppers, and other smaller turnings.
When turning off-center you really need to get the speed of the lathe down. If you have a powerpro you will have no problems, if you have a speed reducer you will have no problems. If you want to use this on 10ER and you have the speed changer you are good to go. When I used the larger block of wood as a base piece it was because it was pretty much ready to go, it is way too large for this operation. When I have the opportunity I will do a test with the proper size block and let you know how well it works at 700 rpm. This is the only part of the initial testing I have left to do.
I think the price point is good, yes thing could always be less expensive but you don't really want cheap at the cost of loss of utility. These parts are well made so we will leave it at that.
There are some limitations on the indexing because of the way it was designed. It is the same limitations that a typical 24 division index always has. As an example if you wanted index by 15 degrees you have it. Want 10 degrees? Sorry you can't have it. All rotations are by increments of 15 degrees. It makes since right?
The off-set is on set steps as well. Yes there are people who make off-set jigs that are able to be set at an almost infinitive number of settings but they also cost some where over $300 and don't have a big min/max range.
I've very glad I purchased mine, just wish I had more time right now to play with it. If this sort of thing interests you like it does me then go for it. You can email Ruth or give her a call and place your order. Most of the things I've gotten from her I paid for with paypal but on my last call she had a new system in place and was able to take my Discover Card. If you do bottle stoppers she has some really nice ones that are the best I've used. If you do call or email make sure you mention you are a shopsmith person.
Rating is a 5 out of 5 all across the board.
Ed
Keep in mind this is not intended for turning 14" bowls or the likes. It is for making pendants, bottle stoppers, and other smaller turnings.
When turning off-center you really need to get the speed of the lathe down. If you have a powerpro you will have no problems, if you have a speed reducer you will have no problems. If you want to use this on 10ER and you have the speed changer you are good to go. When I used the larger block of wood as a base piece it was because it was pretty much ready to go, it is way too large for this operation. When I have the opportunity I will do a test with the proper size block and let you know how well it works at 700 rpm. This is the only part of the initial testing I have left to do.
I think the price point is good, yes thing could always be less expensive but you don't really want cheap at the cost of loss of utility. These parts are well made so we will leave it at that.
There are some limitations on the indexing because of the way it was designed. It is the same limitations that a typical 24 division index always has. As an example if you wanted index by 15 degrees you have it. Want 10 degrees? Sorry you can't have it. All rotations are by increments of 15 degrees. It makes since right?
The off-set is on set steps as well. Yes there are people who make off-set jigs that are able to be set at an almost infinitive number of settings but they also cost some where over $300 and don't have a big min/max range.
I've very glad I purchased mine, just wish I had more time right now to play with it. If this sort of thing interests you like it does me then go for it. You can email Ruth or give her a call and place your order. Most of the things I've gotten from her I paid for with paypal but on my last call she had a new system in place and was able to take my Discover Card. If you do bottle stoppers she has some really nice ones that are the best I've used. If you do call or email make sure you mention you are a shopsmith person.
Rating is a 5 out of 5 all across the board.
Ed