Show me your custom router table for the Shopsmith

[AKTroy]

Hi folks:

My first post up here so I will first say hello. I acquired a 510 with a bandsaw for $325, so at that price I could not say no. I think I put about 15 hours into cleaning it up, and repainting parts, lubricating, etc. Overall it certainly seems to be a well-made machine, and I'm confident I will get many years of use out of it.

Since I don't own a joiner, and it may be a while before I get a shopSmith jointer, I thought I'd go ahead and make up a horizontal joiner with a router table. I already own one of the incra ultra fences, and for $99 I can upgrade to make it fit the shopSmith. I also have the Incra wonder fence. I thought it would be nice to share the fence for both the table saw and router, although just using it for the router table would be fine too.

So, looking for some ideas to fabricate a router table. I'm thinking something that would mount to the extension tubes between the main table saw table and extension table would be a good spot. I guess it's possible to also fabricate one with an extra extension leg set, and this seems like what Shopsmith has done.

In some ways it would be easier to mount to an extra extension leg set, although I believe it would still require some support legs for stability.

For the 1st ideal of mounting on the extension tubes, It looks like some 1" EMT (electrical metal conduit) is the same size as the main tubes. So, would really just need a way to lock it to the extension tubes, and of course fine tune the height.

I'm sure there's gotta be a variety of ways to do this. So, would love to see some photographs of what others have done.

I think this may be one of the first projects I tackle. After this it's going to be a cabinet below the main machine for storage, but that's another topic!

So, please share some photographs of what you done. Looking for some inspiration.

Many thanks!

Troy

[garys]

Do a search on this site. Sometime ago there was a thread with pictures of one that a member built. After reading that thread I considered building one like it but decided that it was easier and more functional to simply mount my router on a separate router table so I don't have to wrestle it around when I need it.

[JPG]

A 'start'.https://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/gene ... 18505.html

[Hobbyman2]

I built this a long time ago and it seems to fit perfect in the SS so I could say it is for my ss , not as nice as others ,,,but it works great and the ss table system makes it even better then the way it was before , clamped to a set of saw horses.

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[Rickster]

My table is barely wide enough to mount a router. Narrow has three advantages: (1) easier to store, (2) easier to handle, and (3) easier to reach router adjustments. If I need a wider table, I can throw on an extension or mount it between the main and end tables. The narrow width does not need any support other than simple extension tubes. I rarely need additional width. One inch holes at each end are for hanging on a wall.

1 Router Table.JPG (54.88 KiB) Viewed 18536 times

Underneath are sliding brackets so I can drop it on the tubes and then clamp it. The cross-piece of the frame is tilted in 20 degrees so the bolt is perpendicular to the clamp when tight.

2 Bracket.jpg (91.46 KiB) Viewed 18536 times

Here it is clamped. When loosened, it slides just far enough to clear the tube so the table can be lifted off.

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The front edge is notched to provide better access to router controls. Mounting a dust port was an afterthought, but it captures a decent percentage of sawdust.

4 Front.jpg (68.97 KiB) Viewed 18536 times

My fence has a $30 Rockler/Incra jig mounted on a pair of boards half-lapped together. It is wide as the table for easy clamping.

5 Fence Back.jpg (68.5 KiB) Viewed 18536 times

The back side of the fence has slots with knobs on each side for adjusting the bit opening on the front.

6 Adjust.jpg (44.42 KiB) Viewed 18536 times

The face has a fixed top half and split bottom half. Here the bottom is opened for a wide bit.

7 Wide.jpg (81.51 KiB) Viewed 18536 times

Here the bottom is closed for cutting slots and grooves. A narrow or closed opening prevents the work piece from tipping into the bit opening. I can adjust for any bit size.

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[dusty]

I like every thing you have shown here. Some really neat engineering and application.

Be aware, I will be making some of my own drawings based on your posted images.

I really like that clamping method.

[algale]

That clamp is really fantastic looking but, and I hate to admit this, I can't get my head around why the frame cross piece needs the 20 degree tilt.

[moggymatt]

Rickster, great setup. I like that clamping solution as well. Now that I've got a 520 I'll have to build a new router like that. Currently my router table was built to bridge my 500 tables or a set of horses.

[Rickster]

Regarding your question on the 20 degree angle: the angle is determined by the hinge location plus the angle of the clamp when it is tight (the prior photo shows the clamp is at a slight angle). In the photo below with clamp out of the way, you can see the clamping bolt. The end-piece is notched on top to countersink the bolt head. My first attempt had a normal, straight end. When I tried to tighten it, the clamp was at an angle to the bolt and it didn't tighten well. So I made a new end with a bolt through it, hand-held it in place, and twisted the end until the bolt went straight through the clamp. It just happened to be 20 degrees. If the hinge was further from the table, the clamp could be straight on the tube and the end-piece could be square. I made the clamp out of a 6" long 2x4 scrap. I drilled a one inch hole that became the curve that clamps to the tube. Then I routed 2.25" long slots for the hinge and bolt. The last step was cutting out the shape and sanding. The hinge is a half inch dowel and red pieces are scraps glued to the dowel to keep the clamp centered on the hinge.

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While I'm thinking about it, here is the bottom of the fence. It needed a hollow space behind the face for bit clearance. I found an angle on sliding panels allowed adjusting closer to the bit. A third piece of 1x4 on the back holds the fence together and adds enough thickness to keep the fence square to the table.

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