jointmatic repair and reassembly
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- JPG
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- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
jointmatic repair and reassembly
Before I start this I need to shout a THANK YOU to Reible, Majones1, RonKlein, and Chapmanruss for their help in my gaining understanding of what I had and also of those parts I did NOT have in earlier threads!!!
So I acquired a jointmatic that I realized was damaged(A very common condition). From the pix at E-Bay thought I could 'fix' the damage.
So here is the journey to that end and reassembly afterwards.
The top of the slide has a hairline crack. I tried to get thin CA to penetrate. Not sure I succeded.
Table damage is obvious, but the stuff missing is not. A copy of the manual and help from this forum remedied that.
A tentative first cut to remove the damaged area using an old 1/4" carbide router bit and the M5.
Setting final depth using a SS part intended for another purpose. The od is the same as parts that normally reside there.
Early cutting pass.
After final pass.
Oak to the rescue. 1/2"x 7/16" x 3+" sanded to size using a MVII conical disk and the M5 table/rip fence with saw blade slot. BTW the MVII conical disk bevel is about 1.5°.
First need to drill holes for the screws that attach the oak to the slide. It will be used as a reference/locator for subsequent operations.The hole is through the oak.Sorry about the 'focus'.
Now to locate for a partial hole that the clamping screw threads engage. Originally this was a molded in brass insert. using a transfer punch locating on the original insert hole(part or which remains on the slide).
Using drill bit to center the quill center axis on the dimple just created with the transfer punch.
So I acquired a jointmatic that I realized was damaged(A very common condition). From the pix at E-Bay thought I could 'fix' the damage.
So here is the journey to that end and reassembly afterwards.
The top of the slide has a hairline crack. I tried to get thin CA to penetrate. Not sure I succeded.
Table damage is obvious, but the stuff missing is not. A copy of the manual and help from this forum remedied that.
A tentative first cut to remove the damaged area using an old 1/4" carbide router bit and the M5.
Setting final depth using a SS part intended for another purpose. The od is the same as parts that normally reside there.
Early cutting pass.
After final pass.
Oak to the rescue. 1/2"x 7/16" x 3+" sanded to size using a MVII conical disk and the M5 table/rip fence with saw blade slot. BTW the MVII conical disk bevel is about 1.5°.
First need to drill holes for the screws that attach the oak to the slide. It will be used as a reference/locator for subsequent operations.The hole is through the oak.Sorry about the 'focus'.
Now to locate for a partial hole that the clamping screw threads engage. Originally this was a molded in brass insert. using a transfer punch locating on the original insert hole(part or which remains on the slide).
Using drill bit to center the quill center axis on the dimple just created with the transfer punch.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Re: jointmatic repair and reassembly
Milling a partial hole in the oak using that old 1/4" carbide router bit.
The notch in the slide hole requires a similar notch in the oak.
Less said about the method to create the notch the better, but here it is. Those observant will have observed the pix sequence does not exactly match the text.
Another view of the oak.
And another.
Last one.
OK now what is going to replace the threaded insert? Raw material for that.
After some alterations. Narrow to fit in the slot and shortened to clear the top.
Then fit into the slot in the oak.
The notch in the slide hole requires a similar notch in the oak.
Less said about the method to create the notch the better, but here it is. Those observant will have observed the pix sequence does not exactly match the text.
Another view of the oak.
And another.
Last one.
OK now what is going to replace the threaded insert? Raw material for that.
After some alterations. Narrow to fit in the slot and shortened to clear the top.
Then fit into the slot in the oak.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Re: jointmatic repair and reassembly
Now about that missing gibb. Raw material = 1/2" EMT coup[ling.
Performing a crude harvesting.
After refinement a test fit. That threaded part in the hole is one that belongs there. The fit is acceptable.
Another pix somewhat out of sequence, but it shows the fit of the gibb. The radius of the gibb is slightly smaller that the part(s)itclamps against - that is good - distributes the force over a greater area.
REASSEMBLY BEGINS
So what does all the parts look like. Some 'new' screws are included. Other embellishments will be revealed later.
First reattach the miter gauge slot extrusion. Simply snug results in a good fit. To much gorilla and the miter gauge bar will jam.
The two vertical slide guide bars are attached first. Note the bar holes are offset. Correct orientation is required. Merely snug at this time.
Next the top horizontal bar is attached. After the top bar is tightened, the vertical bar screws can be tightened. I do not think it is necessary to use a square here. The slide fit is sloppy.
The slide has a projection on the front. Screws and spacers retain it from the rear. Another pix out of sequence.
Height scale is added on the left side. Two screws original, I will use screws in all 4 slots.
An embellishment - Use unused threaded hole to store router chuck wrenches.
And another unused hole on the right =side to store a small 5/32 hex wrench. A magnet simply attaches to both the bar and the wrench. Pushing the wrench back from the front moves it away from the magnet so it can be removed. Hmmmmm. Somebody posted the pix upside down!
Performing a crude harvesting.
After refinement a test fit. That threaded part in the hole is one that belongs there. The fit is acceptable.
Another pix somewhat out of sequence, but it shows the fit of the gibb. The radius of the gibb is slightly smaller that the part(s)itclamps against - that is good - distributes the force over a greater area.
REASSEMBLY BEGINS
So what does all the parts look like. Some 'new' screws are included. Other embellishments will be revealed later.
First reattach the miter gauge slot extrusion. Simply snug results in a good fit. To much gorilla and the miter gauge bar will jam.
The two vertical slide guide bars are attached first. Note the bar holes are offset. Correct orientation is required. Merely snug at this time.
Next the top horizontal bar is attached. After the top bar is tightened, the vertical bar screws can be tightened. I do not think it is necessary to use a square here. The slide fit is sloppy.
The slide has a projection on the front. Screws and spacers retain it from the rear. Another pix out of sequence.
Height scale is added on the left side. Two screws original, I will use screws in all 4 slots.
An embellishment - Use unused threaded hole to store router chuck wrenches.
And another unused hole on the right =side to store a small 5/32 hex wrench. A magnet simply attaches to both the bar and the wrench. Pushing the wrench back from the front moves it away from the magnet so it can be removed. Hmmmmm. Somebody posted the pix upside down!
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Re: jointmatic repair and reassembly
When I attempted to add pix to the lead screw assembly below, i stumbled over the attachment limit or some other cockpit issue.
A (hopefully) coherent post is
viewtopic.php?p=295465#p295465
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Back to 'normal' assembly.
The dust port mounting plate has counter sunk holes for the hose coupling mounting screws. The router mounting plate has similar countersunk holes in varying hole patterns for different routers.
The dust port attaches to the plate and the plate attaches to the slide.
The router mount plate attaches to the slide - router added last.
Now for the tricky part. The slide height screw ASSEMBLY.
The sequence of parts attachment to the lead screw. The large nylon washer goes on the threaded shaft first. It provides a low friction bearing for the bottom of the top of the lead screw.
Then the screw with washer attached is put through the hole in the top rail. Under the top rail the small nylon washer is sandwiched between two thin metal washers and slipped unto the rod. The nut and lock nut are threaded up to a few inches. The knurled threaded bushing and spring washer must be run up on to the rod a few inches.
The free end of the rod needs to be inserted into the hole in the top of the slide.
BUT first the new parts need to be put in their slot. The last part needs to be placed in the recess for it under the slide hole.
Then the rod assembly is slipped into the hole and the bottom part threaded onto it. The nut and lock nut are run up to the washer trio and snugged up and jam nutted.
The crank is mounted on the top of the threaded rod with the set screw on the flat.
Final positioning of the parts in the slide hole is attained when final alignment is done.
A screw takes the place of the original knob for clamping the slide to the stuff on the bottom of the screw. It is not something that will be adjusted often. I think only once will suffice if done correctly and nothing else changes.
Finally a router mounted. I got lucky - the router hole pattern was time relevant for the mounting plate.
I will be fixing that verbage.
A (hopefully) coherent post is
viewtopic.php?p=295465#p295465
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Back to 'normal' assembly.
The dust port mounting plate has counter sunk holes for the hose coupling mounting screws. The router mounting plate has similar countersunk holes in varying hole patterns for different routers.
The dust port attaches to the plate and the plate attaches to the slide.
The router mount plate attaches to the slide - router added last.
Now for the tricky part. The slide height screw ASSEMBLY.
The sequence of parts attachment to the lead screw. The large nylon washer goes on the threaded shaft first. It provides a low friction bearing for the bottom of the top of the lead screw.
Then the screw with washer attached is put through the hole in the top rail. Under the top rail the small nylon washer is sandwiched between two thin metal washers and slipped unto the rod. The nut and lock nut are threaded up to a few inches. The knurled threaded bushing and spring washer must be run up on to the rod a few inches.
The free end of the rod needs to be inserted into the hole in the top of the slide.
BUT first the new parts need to be put in their slot. The last part needs to be placed in the recess for it under the slide hole.
Then the rod assembly is slipped into the hole and the bottom part threaded onto it. The nut and lock nut are run up to the washer trio and snugged up and jam nutted.
The crank is mounted on the top of the threaded rod with the set screw on the flat.
Final positioning of the parts in the slide hole is attained when final alignment is done.
A screw takes the place of the original knob for clamping the slide to the stuff on the bottom of the screw. It is not something that will be adjusted often. I think only once will suffice if done correctly and nothing else changes.
Finally a router mounted. I got lucky - the router hole pattern was time relevant for the mounting plate.
I will be fixing that verbage.
- Attachments
-
- DUST PORT MOUNT TO PLATE.jpg (203.82 KiB) Viewed 1514 times
-
- SLIDE HEIGHT ADJ SCREW ETC.jpg (175.48 KiB) Viewed 1512 times
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Re: jointmatic repair and reassembly
Left this out above.
This is a home made mitre gauge stop rod. By removing the short rod it mounts to the right vertical rail using an otherwise unused tapped hole. Uses set screws with 5/32 hex socket.
Height adjustment screw assembly pix coming.
Height adjustment screw assembly pix coming.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- chapmanruss
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 4541
- Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2014 8:16 pm
- Location: near Portland, Oregon
Re: jointmatic repair and reassembly
Very nice on the creative problem solving in this restoration. I had an opportunity to buy a JointMatic a few years ago but passed on it knowing some of the problems they have. You have inspired me to reconsider buying one should the opportunity arise again.
Russ
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's, 2 Power Stations & Crafter's Station
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored.
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's, 2 Power Stations & Crafter's Station
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored.
Re: jointmatic repair and reassembly
Excellent break down of the repair JPG. I especially like your milling machine.
Mike -
Mike -
ShopSmith Mark VII (406982), with Band Saw, Jig Saw, Belt Sander, and Jointer
ShopSmith Mark VII (400457), (working backup or parts machine)
12" Craftsman Band Saw (113.243311)
12" Craftsman Powered Hacksaw (108.1501)
12" Atlas Commercial (3990) 12" Back Geared, Undermount, Screw Cutting Lathe with Quick Change Gear Box, Taper, Milling and Grinding Attachments
Atlas MFC Horizontal Milling Machine with Vertical Milling Attachment
Atlas 7B Metal Shaper
ShopSmith Mark VII (400457), (working backup or parts machine)
12" Craftsman Band Saw (113.243311)
12" Craftsman Powered Hacksaw (108.1501)
12" Atlas Commercial (3990) 12" Back Geared, Undermount, Screw Cutting Lathe with Quick Change Gear Box, Taper, Milling and Grinding Attachments
Atlas MFC Horizontal Milling Machine with Vertical Milling Attachment
Atlas 7B Metal Shaper
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Re: jointmatic repair and reassembly
I was describing a router bit to some mechanical designers years back and they exclaimed "an end mill"! Ever since then I think of it as an end mill for wood. A router bit makes a very clean hole when using the end cutter as a hole borer.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Re: jointmatic repair and reassembly
JPG wrote: Tue Feb 22, 2022 3:49 pm Back to 'normal' assembly.
The dust port mounting plate has counter sunk holes for the hose coupling mounting screws. The router mounting plate has similar countersunk holes in varying hole patterns for different routers.
The dust port attaches to the plate and the plate attaches to the slide.
ADD DC PORT & PLATE.jpg The router mount plate attaches to the slide - router added last. Now for the tricky part. The slide height screw ASSEMBLY.
The sequence of parts attachment to the lead screw. The large nylon washer goes on the threaded shaft first. It provides a low friction bearing for the bottom of the top of the lead screw.
Then the screw with washer attached is put through the hole in the top rail.
feed screw 1.jpg Under the top rail the small nylon washer is sandwiched between two thin metal washers and slipped unto the rod.
feed screw 2.jpg The nut and lock nut are threaded up to a few inches.
feed screw 3.jpg The knurled threaded bushing and spring washer must be run up on to the rod a few inches.
feed screw 6.jpg The free end of the rod needs to be inserted into the hole in the top of the slide.
BUT first the new parts need to be put in their slot.
feed screw 5.jpg The last part needs to be placed in the recess for it under the slide hole.
feed screw 7.jpg Then the rod assembly is slipped into the hole and the bottom part threaded onto it.
feed screw 8.jpg The nut and lock nut are run up to the washer trio and snugged up and jam nutted.
The crank is mounted on the top of the threaded rod with the set screw on the flat.
Final positioning of the parts in the slide hole is attained when final alignment is done.
A screw takes the place of the original knob for clamping the slide to the stuff on the bottom of the screw. It is not something that will be adjusted often. I think only once will suffice if done correctly and nothing else changes.
Finally a router mounted. I got lucky - the router hole pattern was time relevant for the mounting plate.
add router.jpg
I will be fixing that verbage.
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╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Re: jointmatic repair and reassembly
NOTE: I was attempting to add lead screw pix to this post and I believe I stepped over he maxpix limit or some other cockpit issue.
In the process of trying to 'fix' I inadvertently added a new post with almost the same stuff.
Here is that added post pp
In the process of trying to 'fix' I inadvertently added a new post with almost the same stuff.
Here is that added post pp
JPG wrote: Tue Feb 22, 2022 3:49 pm Back to 'normal' assembly.
The dust port mounting plate has counter sunk holes for the hose coupling mounting screws. The router mounting plate has similar countersunk holes in varying hole patterns for different routers.
DUST PORT MOUNT TO PLATE.jpg
The dust port attaches to the plate and the plate attaches to the slide.
ADD DC PORT & PLATE.jpg
The router mount plate attaches to the slide - router added last.
ADD ROUTER MOUNT PLATE.jpg
Now for the tricky part. The slide height screw ASSEMBLY.
The sequence of parts attachment to the lead screw.
SLIDE HEIGHT ADJ SCREW ETC.jpg
The large nylon washer goes on the threaded shaft first. It provides a low friction bearing for the bottom of the top of the lead screw.
Then the screw with washer attached is put through the hole in the top rail.
feed screw 1.jpg
Under the top rail the small nylon washer is sandwiched between two thin metal washers and slipped unto the rod.
feed screw 2.jpg
The nut and lock nut are threaded up to a few inches.
feed screw 3.jpg
The knurled threaded bushing and spring washer must be run up on to the rod a few inches.
feed screw 6.jpg
The free end of the rod needs to be inserted into the hole in the top of the slide.
BUT first the new parts need to be put in their slot.
feed screw 5.jpg
The last part needs to be placed in the recess for it under the slide hole.
feed screw 7.jpg
Then the rod assembly is slipped into the hole and the bottom part threaded onto it.
feed screw 8.jpg
The nut and lock nut are run up to the washer trio and snugged up and jam nutted.
The crank is mounted on the top of the threaded rod with the set screw on the flat.
Final positioning of the parts in the slide hole is attained when final alignment is done.
A screw takes the place of the original knob for clamping the slide to the stuff on the bottom of the screw. It is not something that will be adjusted often. I think only once will suffice if done correctly and nothing else changes.
Finally a router mounted. I got lucky - the router hole pattern was time relevant for the mounting plate.
add router.jpg
I will be fixing that verbage.
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange