Shopsmith Forums

Posted: **Tue Feb 22, 2022 3:49 pm**

Before I start this I need to shout a THANK YOU to Reible, Majones1, RonKlein, and Chapmanruss for their help in my gaining understanding of what I had and also of those parts I did NOT have in earlier threads!!!

So I acquired a jointmatic that I realized was damaged(A very common condition). From the pix at E-Bay thought I could 'fix' the damage.

So here is the journey to that end and reassembly afterwards.

The top of the slide has a hairline crack. I tried to get thin CA to penetrate. Not sure I succeded.

: table top damage.jpg (390.11 KiB) Viewed 1571 times

Table damage is obvious, but the stuff missing is not. A copy of the manual and help from this forum remedied that.

: table damage 2.jpg (254.49 KiB) Viewed 1560 times

A tentative first cut to remove the damaged area using an old 1/4" carbide router bit and the M5.

: table damage cut 1.jpg (252.35 KiB) Viewed 1559 times

Setting final depth using a SS part intended for another purpose. The od is the same as parts that normally reside there.

: table damage cut 2.jpg (208 KiB) Viewed 1558 times

Early cutting pass.

: table damage cut 3.jpg (259.01 KiB) Viewed 1557 times

After final pass.

: table damage cut 4.jpg (328.96 KiB) Viewed 1556 times

Oak to the rescue. 1/2"x 7/16" x 3+" sanded to size using a MVII conical disk and the M5 table/rip fence with saw blade slot. BTW the MVII conical disk bevel is about 1.5°.

: oak to the rescue.jpg (94.61 KiB) Viewed 1555 times

First need to drill holes for the screws that attach the oak to the slide. It will be used as a reference/locator for subsequent operations.The hole is through the oak.Sorry about the 'focus'.

: drilling locating hole.jpg (115.51 KiB) Viewed 1553 times

Now to locate for a partial hole that the clamping screw threads engage. Originally this was a molded in brass insert. using a transfer punch locating on the original insert hole(part or which remains on the slide).

: lock hole locating.jpg (191.79 KiB) Viewed 1552 times

Using drill bit to center the quill center axis on the dimple just created with the transfer punch.

: setting quill location.jpg (197.05 KiB) Viewed 1551 times

Posted: **Tue Feb 22, 2022 3:49 pm**

Milling a partial hole in the oak using that old 1/4" carbide router bit.

: MILL TNUT HOLE.jpg (257.51 KiB) Viewed 1547 times

The notch in the slide hole requires a similar notch in the oak.

: notch required.jpg (98.39 KiB) Viewed 1547 times

Less said about the method to create the notch the better, but here it is.

: oak1.jpg (146.89 KiB) Viewed 1547 times

Those observant will have observed the pix sequence does not exactly match the text.

Another view of the oak.

: oak 2.jpg (112.31 KiB) Viewed 1545 times

And another.

: oak 3.jpg (121.96 KiB) Viewed 1545 times

Last one.

: oak 4.jpg (92.01 KiB) Viewed 1545 times

OK now what is going to replace the threaded insert? Raw material for that.

: NEW SLIDE CLAMP THREADS.jpg (420.36 KiB) Viewed 1544 times

After some alterations. Narrow to fit in the slot and shortened to clear the top.

: SLIDE THREADS SCALPED.jpg (97.39 KiB) Viewed 1544 times

Then fit into the slot in the oak.

: SLIDE THREADS MODIFIED.jpg (347.38 KiB) Viewed 1543 times

Posted: **Tue Feb 22, 2022 3:49 pm**

Now about that missing gibb. Raw material = 1/2" EMT coup[ling.

: gibb raw materiel.jpg (288.93 KiB) Viewed 1542 times

Performing a crude harvesting.

: gibb coming.jpg (203.59 KiB) Viewed 1542 times

After refinement a test fit.

: gibb slip fit.jpg (227.04 KiB) Viewed 1542 times

That threaded part in the hole is one that belongs there. The fit is acceptable.

Another pix somewhat out of sequence, but it shows the fit of the gibb. The radius of the gibb is slightly smaller that the part(s)itclamps against - that is good - distributes the force over a greater area.

: GIBB FIT.jpg (219.39 KiB) Viewed 1541 times

REASSEMBLY BEGINS

So what does all the parts look like. Some 'new' screws are included. Other embellishments will be revealed later.

: START REASSEMBLY.jpg (476.11 KiB) Viewed 1539 times

First reattach the miter gauge slot extrusion. Simply snug results in a good fit. To much gorilla and the miter gauge bar will jam.

: MOUNT MITER GAUGE SLOT.jpg (318.99 KiB) Viewed 1539 times

The two vertical slide guide bars are attached first. Note the bar holes are offset. Correct orientation is required. Merely snug at this time.

: SLIDE GUIDE.jpg (63.98 KiB) Viewed 1538 times

Next the top horizontal bar is attached. After the top bar is tightened, the vertical bar screws can be tightened. I do not think it is necessary to use a square here. The slide fit is sloppy.

: add top rail.jpg (316.12 KiB) Viewed 1534 times

The slide has a projection on the front. Screws and spacers retain it from the rear. Another pix out of sequence.

: SLIDE RETAINER.jpg (128.85 KiB) Viewed 1531 times

Height scale is added on the left side. Two screws original, I will use screws in all 4 slots.

: ADD HEIGHT SCALE.jpg (75.38 KiB) Viewed 1530 times

An embellishment - Use unused threaded hole to store router chuck wrenches.

: ROUTER WRENCH STORAGE.jpg (186.92 KiB) Viewed 1530 times

And another unused hole on the right =side to store a small 5/32 hex wrench. A magnet simply attaches to both the bar and the wrench. Pushing the wrench back from the front moves it away from the magnet so it can be removed.

: HEX KEY STORAGE.jpg (191.61 KiB) Viewed 1529 times

Hmmmmm. Somebody posted the pix upside down!

Posted: **Tue Feb 22, 2022 3:49 pm**

When I attempted to add pix to the lead screw assembly below, i stumbled over the attachment limit or some other cockpit issue.

A (hopefully) coherent post is

viewtopic.php?p=295465#p295465
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Back to 'normal' assembly.

The dust port mounting plate has counter sunk holes for the hose coupling mounting screws. The router mounting plate has similar countersunk holes in varying hole patterns for different routers.

The attachment DUST PORT MOUNT TO PLATE.jpg is no longer available

The dust port attaches to the plate and the plate attaches to the slide.

The attachment ADD DC PORT & PLATE.jpg is no longer available

The router mount plate attaches to the slide - router added last.

The attachment ADD ROUTER MOUNT PLATE.jpg is no longer available

Now for the tricky part. The slide height screw ASSEMBLY.

The sequence of parts attachment to the lead screw.

: ADD DC PORT & PLATE.jpg (263.83 KiB) Viewed 1524 times

The large nylon washer goes on the threaded shaft first. It provides a low friction bearing for the bottom of the top of the lead screw.

Then the screw with washer attached is put through the hole in the top rail.

: ADD ROUTER MOUNT PLATE.jpg (337.77 KiB) Viewed 1524 times

Under the top rail the small nylon washer is sandwiched between two thin metal washers and slipped unto the rod.

: add router.jpg (234.88 KiB) Viewed 1524 times

The nut and lock nut are threaded up to a few inches.

: NEW STUFF(SLIDE CLAMP).jpg (195.53 KiB) Viewed 1523 times

The knurled threaded bushing and spring washer must be run up on to the rod a few inches.

: feed screw 3.jpg (157.81 KiB) Viewed 1395 times

The free end of the rod needs to be inserted into the hole in the top of the slide.

BUT first the new parts need to be put in their slot.

: feed screw 2.jpg (170.61 KiB) Viewed 1395 times

The last part needs to be placed in the recess for it under the slide hole.

: feed screw 1.jpg (145.44 KiB) Viewed 1395 times

Then the rod assembly is slipped into the hole and the bottom part threaded onto it.

: feedscrew 4.jpg (82.94 KiB) Viewed 1395 times

The nut and lock nut are run up to the washer trio and snugged up and jam nutted.

The crank is mounted on the top of the threaded rod with the set screw on the flat.

Final positioning of the parts in the slide hole is attained when final alignment is done.

A screw takes the place of the original knob for clamping the slide to the stuff on the bottom of the screw. It is not something that will be adjusted often. I think only once will suffice if done correctly and nothing else changes.

Finally a router mounted. I got lucky - the router hole pattern was time relevant for the mounting plate.

The attachment add router.jpg is no longer available

I will be fixing that verbage.

Posted: **Tue Feb 22, 2022 8:19 pm**

Left this out above.

: STOP ADDED.jpg (230.86 KiB) Viewed 1412 times

This is a home made mitre gauge stop rod. By removing the short rod it mounts to the right vertical rail using an otherwise unused tapped hole. Uses set screws with 5/32 hex socket.

Height adjustment screw assembly pix coming.

Posted: **Wed Feb 23, 2022 12:07 pm**

Very nice on the creative problem solving in this restoration. I had an opportunity to buy a JointMatic a few years ago but passed on it knowing some of the problems they have. You have inspired me to reconsider buying one should the opportunity arise again.

Posted: **Wed Feb 23, 2022 1:49 pm**

Excellent break down of the repair JPG. I especially like your milling machine.

Mike -

Posted: **Wed Feb 23, 2022 8:39 pm**

I was describing a router bit to some mechanical designers years back and they exclaimed "an end mill"! Ever since then I think of it as an end mill for wood. A router bit makes a very clean hole when using the end cutter as a hole borer.

Posted: **Sat Mar 12, 2022 1:56 pm**

JPG wrote: Tue Feb 22, 2022 3:49 pm Back to 'normal' assembly.

The dust port mounting plate has counter sunk holes for the hose coupling mounting screws. The router mounting plate has similar countersunk holes in varying hole patterns for different routers.

DUST PORT MOUNT TO PLATE.jpg (203.82 KiB) Viewed 1394 times

The dust port attaches to the plate and the plate attaches to the slide.
ADD DC PORT & PLATE.jpg

ADD DC PORT & PLATE.jpg (263.83 KiB) Viewed 1394 times

The router mount plate attaches to the slide - router added last.

ADD ROUTER MOUNT PLATE.jpg (337.77 KiB) Viewed 1394 times

Now for the tricky part. The slide height screw ASSEMBLY.

The sequence of parts attachment to the lead screw.

SLIDE HEIGHT ADJ SCREW ETC.jpg (175.48 KiB) Viewed 1394 times

The large nylon washer goes on the threaded shaft first. It provides a low friction bearing for the bottom of the top of the lead screw.

Then the screw with washer attached is put through the hole in the top rail.
feed screw 1.jpg

feed screw 1.jpg (145.44 KiB) Viewed 1394 times

Under the top rail the small nylon washer is sandwiched between two thin metal washers and slipped unto the rod.
feed screw 2.jpg

feed screw 2.jpg (170.61 KiB) Viewed 1394 times

The nut and lock nut are threaded up to a few inches.
feed screw 3.jpg

feed screw 3.jpg (157.81 KiB) Viewed 1394 times

The knurled threaded bushing and spring washer must be run up on to the rod a few inches.
feed screw 6.jpg

feed screw 6.jpg (175.51 KiB) Viewed 1394 times

The free end of the rod needs to be inserted into the hole in the top of the slide.

BUT first the new parts need to be put in their slot.
feed screw 5.jpg

feed screw 5.jpg (294.24 KiB) Viewed 1394 times

The last part needs to be placed in the recess for it under the slide hole.
feed screw 7.jpg

feed screw 7.jpg (196.3 KiB) Viewed 1394 times

Then the rod assembly is slipped into the hole and the bottom part threaded onto it.
feed screw 8.jpg

feed screw 8.jpg (222.5 KiB) Viewed 1394 times

The nut and lock nut are run up to the washer trio and snugged up and jam nutted.

The crank is mounted on the top of the threaded rod with the set screw on the flat.

Final positioning of the parts in the slide hole is attained when final alignment is done.

A screw takes the place of the original knob for clamping the slide to the stuff on the bottom of the screw. It is not something that will be adjusted often. I think only once will suffice if done correctly and nothing else changes.

Finally a router mounted. I got lucky - the router hole pattern was time relevant for the mounting plate.

add router.jpg

I will be fixing that verbage.

Posted: **Sat Mar 12, 2022 2:04 pm**

NOTE: I was attempting to add lead screw pix to this post and I believe I stepped over he maxpix limit or some other cockpit issue.

In the process of trying to 'fix' I inadvertently added a new post with almost the same stuff.

Here is that added post pp

JPG wrote: Tue Feb 22, 2022 3:49 pm Back to 'normal' assembly.

The dust port mounting plate has counter sunk holes for the hose coupling mounting screws. The router mounting plate has similar countersunk holes in varying hole patterns for different routers.
DUST PORT MOUNT TO PLATE.jpg

The dust port attaches to the plate and the plate attaches to the slide.
ADD DC PORT & PLATE.jpg

The router mount plate attaches to the slide - router added last.
ADD ROUTER MOUNT PLATE.jpg

Now for the tricky part. The slide height screw ASSEMBLY.

The sequence of parts attachment to the lead screw.
SLIDE HEIGHT ADJ SCREW ETC.jpg

The large nylon washer goes on the threaded shaft first. It provides a low friction bearing for the bottom of the top of the lead screw.

Then the screw with washer attached is put through the hole in the top rail.
feed screw 1.jpg

Under the top rail the small nylon washer is sandwiched between two thin metal washers and slipped unto the rod.
feed screw 2.jpg

The nut and lock nut are threaded up to a few inches.
feed screw 3.jpg

The knurled threaded bushing and spring washer must be run up on to the rod a few inches.
feed screw 6.jpg

The free end of the rod needs to be inserted into the hole in the top of the slide.

BUT first the new parts need to be put in their slot.
feed screw 5.jpg

The last part needs to be placed in the recess for it under the slide hole.
feed screw 7.jpg

Then the rod assembly is slipped into the hole and the bottom part threaded onto it.
feed screw 8.jpg

The nut and lock nut are run up to the washer trio and snugged up and jam nutted.

The crank is mounted on the top of the threaded rod with the set screw on the flat.

Final positioning of the parts in the slide hole is attained when final alignment is done.

A screw takes the place of the original knob for clamping the slide to the stuff on the bottom of the screw. It is not something that will be adjusted often. I think only once will suffice if done correctly and nothing else changes.

Finally a router mounted. I got lucky - the router hole pattern was time relevant for the mounting plate.

add router.jpg

I will be fixing that verbage.

Shopsmith Forums

jointmatic repair and reassembly

jointmatic repair and reassembly

Re: jointmatic repair and reassembly

Re: jointmatic repair and reassembly

Re: jointmatic repair and reassembly

Re: jointmatic repair and reassembly

Re: jointmatic repair and reassembly

Re: jointmatic repair and reassembly

Re: jointmatic repair and reassembly

Re: jointmatic repair and reassembly

Re: jointmatic repair and reassembly