Shopsmith Forums

wHY DO YOU THINK THE CAP IS BAD?

HAVE YOU VERIFIED THE START SWITCH IS MADE?

DOUBLE CHECK THE DIRECTION SWITCH CONTACTS ABS WIRING ARE CORRECT.

CAPACITORS RARELY GO BAD.

JPG thank you for the assist!
Not sure if cap is bad but figured while it’s apart might as well replace it.
The start switch is made? Motor ran beautifully, a little bump run then off, till I put switch in housing. I had it out, but wired up,to bump start it off and on to make sure switch worked. After it was installed in housing motor would just buzz with no rotation. Took it out of housing and it still just buzzed.
Wiring appears correct based on the drawings.

Need to continuity check switch contacts in all positions. The L1/L2 contacts are working. It is the other 5 contacts that need checking.

Hi Mike,
How do you know the start relay you got on Ebay is good?
My mkVII had a bad relay switch when I got it.. Here is a link to my thread on resolving my problem. I don't know if it will help you with your problem. It looks like the mars relay I got is not available but if you need one just look for one with the specs JPG gave me.

viewtopic.php?t=22297

I'd suggest bench testing the switch with a continuity tester for each position checking which terminals should be open or closed for each position. The internal sliding plates and contacts for these switches is really complex. My contacts on a couple terminals were worn to a point where I was getting inconsistent continuity. I built the contacts back up using solder, filed down to flatten, and it's worked fine ever since.

Mike

Thanks for all the info!
JPG I will check out switch, I've been putting it off as electrical has never been my thing, but it's time to learn some new tricks. I'll look for a utube video to figure it out.
Lahola1, I did read your thread, it was of great help, and used that info to purchase a "new, old stock" relay.
Miken I do not have your skills by a long shot. I'm going to try the continuity thing, the drilling hole and cleaning thing to repair, if it goes beyond that I think it will become an on/off machine.
May not get it done till March as I have some maintenance/repairs getting done at Stanford starting the 3rd of Feb.

Thank you all, I now have a direction to go, what a great forum:-)

If push comes to shove, send me the switch and I will attempt to make it operable(no guarantees other than best effort).

FWIW connecting wires sans switch will prove if it will work.(takes place of switch)

Thank you JPG, greatly appreciated. Will try to teach this old dog new tricks. It’s something I should have learned long ago and I have plenty of time to learn now. May be a bit but I’ll gitter done.;-)

Walking and chewing gum, pic of tops that are not finished. Everything seems to function as it should hopefully get to electrical later today. Bout all I can do till later on in the month.

JPG- thanks for pushing Gary to stock the poly belt for Mark VII. I did indeed purchase a new one when I was rebuilding a Mark VII I picked up on a road trip through OH. I successfully did bearings and it is more quiet. I saw some posts about drive belt length on forum and seemed 29.5" was the one so I bought one. After I got it back together, it drops off at saw speed. It seemed like the sheaves were moving too far apart. I pushed it into a corner and it got buried under other projects/stuff. I recently unburied it (just like an archeological dig!) and started messing with it, I had found some VII parts (lucky with right time/right place) in Corbin KY just south of you. The guy purchased a storage unit that had delinquent payment and had no use for them. It had the missing tables/miter gauge/fence etc. I was missing and one end and a MOTOR!!! all for $30. The wiring on motor is bare and insulation brittle so I need to redo before I try to fire it. The switch is crap but might be good for parts. Anyway...... it has a motor belt and I compared sizes and it is slightly shorter than the 29.5" I purchased. Then the mechanics of how the sheaves work (BAM OUCH!). I have used SSmith tools over 47 years and been repairing/refurbishing over 23 now but mostly Mark V. The belt is too long. DANG-NAB-IT!
So all this to ask if you know the correct length of the drive belt for a VII? I'll try to get a good measurement today when I hit the shop. Eventually I will paint the base so it all looks nice. I painted the motor carcass and it came out very nice. I use Rustoleum Textured Dark Pewter and it is a very close match- mostly to Mark V in late 70s and up. The Mark Vii and early 70s Mark V look to be a darker gray. Thanks for sharing the info you have especially on the VII. Since Bill Mayo passed it left a huge hole.