Mini cv06 cyclone setup

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newzev
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Joined: Thu Jun 18, 2009 3:18 pm

Mini cv06 cyclone setup

Post by newzev »

I ordered the mini cv06 cyclone from Clear Vue cyclones inc.

I plan to scrape concrete parging off my basement walls down to substrate using a angle grinder and vacuum shroud attachment. The walls are pebbly to feel and were pored in 1915. I initially intended the dusk to go directly to my Rigid 20 gallen 5 hp shop vac, but now realize the filter will get clogged from dusk so quickly as to make the vacuum ineffective.

I found the Clear Vue Cyclone site on the internet and spoke with Ed who suggested the minCv06 cyclone as a way to keep divert the dusk away form the filter.

Although there are videos and photos of home made contractions, I am not as resourcful as some of the ingenienous inventors on the site. While there are good photos I can use more step by step directions to set up a very simple system.

I am hopeful someone will tell me a very simple direct way to set up the system. I want it to be somewhat portable.

I was hoping to connect the mincv06 to a 5 gallon pail.

What brand of pail would be strong enough? Where can I easily get one? What is the best way to create the hole on the top of the lid. I don't have a router but have a jig saw and 1/2 inch electric drill. What do I do to ensure the proper seal of the lid to bucket and mini cv06 to the lid. What hardware do I need to do this and where can I go to get it? what is the best way to ensure the hoses are connected airtight to the mini cv06?

Sorry to trouble you folks but I am just a novice at all this.

After scraping off the walls to the substrate I plan to seal them with a crystalline waterproofing agent such as Zypex or Kryton or Radon Seal or concrete sealer X2. Does anyone have any experience using these sealers and which do they recommend? I might need to thicken the sealer to get a more uniform finish. Any recommendations. i.e, Sacrete top and bond cement or resurfacing cement or Quickrete resurfacing cement, or just using less water with the crystalline waterproof sealers making the coating thicker and more uniform. Any tools you recommend to get a uniform coat other than a tapico brush and perhaps a steal trowel.

My intent in doing all this is to stop water migration through my basement walls and thus prevent the cement coatings from separating from the foundation walls. Note: the floor is dry. It is not a waterproofing problem as much as a water migration problem. I do not need french drains as there is no water on the floor. Cystalline waterproofs such as Kryton and Zypex create crystals deep in the cement that allows you to waterproof from the interior.

thanks for any suggestions

Ken
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beeg
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Location: St. Louis,Mo.

Post by beeg »

All I can say is use a dry wall type bucket and a hole saw on your drill.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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reible
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Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 12:08 pm
Location: Aurora, IL

Post by reible »

Hi,

Check out this thread:
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=3707

The item you ordered looks a lot like the Dust Deputy and most likely mounts about the same way.

Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
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etc92guy
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Joined: Mon Aug 25, 2008 10:15 pm
Location: Hartland, WI

Post by etc92guy »

Newzev - If you have a water migration problem, it sounds like you have a water seepage problem. I'm not a hydralics engineer, but everything I've ever read as a diy'er has stated that you have to stop the fluid at the source, ie, outside, not inside, because it'll wreak havoc with the foundation when the foundation is sealed from the inside.

I'm assuming since your considering a task of this magnatude that you've checked the slope around the house, have gutter extensions, have proper drainage in the yard away from the house, etc. If that's the case, it may be backhoe time and applying water proofing to the outside of the foundation. This way you stop any damage to the inside ( and your wife gets new landscaping :D )

Or are we talking about condensation? If that's the case you need a thermal break from the cold stone walls and the warm moist air inside.

I apologize if I'm being a buttinski ( or just a plain butt :p ) but I've never heard of migration. Can you clue me in on where the water is coming from?
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