Shopsmith Forums

That explanation makes wonder what the correct range of new 1/2" shorter belts is. ;>}










Ya I do realize that explanation assumes the initial setup is unchanged during the subsequent belt stretching.







I can also see why the numbers were prudently removed.

I believe the "new" two bearing idler shaft assembly is directly interchangeable with the "old' water pump bearing. Second retaining screw needs to be added to eccentric.

BTW the 'button' bearing is part of the control sheave.

No experience here, but I question the assumption that a 3 phase induction motor is tolerant of a wide frequency range. Or the 3 phase converter as well.

I believe the subject is quill shaft set screws. I can agree that drive hubs on either rear shaft or SPTs need to be cup or serrated cup tips.

Other locations used for holding parts in assemblies also need to be cup . . .

Not yet mentioned is proper length will vary.

My take on funky English/spelling is inexcusable since a serious review of the product will reveal all(assuming the reviewer is functionally literate with the language(and the intended purpose of the product)).

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Scroll down.

Press fit.

One can always add a manually operated external switch. Not recommended but it is a work around.

While we be on the subject of set screws, do be aware that cup tip and serrated cup screws are to be avoided. Flat or oval tip are the proper choice.

I be guessing here (this is a most unusual experience) 1) the motor has a natural tendency to start in one direction when the start circuit is ineffective.(a logical conclusion given the problem) 2) that natural tendency reverses occasionally due to factor(s) unknown. 3) by placing the motor in rota...

The "holes" in the tube rails are an early model distinction and applies to both the 505 and 510. The early version had tapped holes in the tables thus making them non adjustable.