keakap wrote:Okay. Put considerable thot into this, and the light popped on this morning- I think I remember the salient details.
First, "sorta, sorta, sorta" is the best there is for that part. There is no hard and fast rule due to too many variables.
As for the old rails and holes and such, there are variations upon variations there too. Hint: I was not sent a drill bit iirc (or if I was it was not needed).
Let me interject here a disclaimer: I do not intend to offend, so there IS NO offense. Period.
When I ordered the parts for the upgrade to 520, and I believe it was done o'er the phone and I was speaking to a SS Lady, the situation here was 'made clear' and the actual specifications of the parts were left to the SS Lady.
Best move I could have made.
I got not one kit, not two kits, but a selection of items from both kits, and then some.
Here's a little detail that stymied my memory for awhile- I'd forgotten, sorta, that an early step in the evolution of my badly broken 510 was the exchange of the MAIN table. So, check this out, I then had a 510 with old rails BUT a table, MAIN only, that had the rail TAPPED holes drilled out. Here come de alignment gauges. But weight! The rails went on IN alignment!. Turns out the rail mount holes, formerly tapped for a "screw", were reamed "perfectly" to the diameter of the (stud) "bolt", and there was no 'slop' involved on simply mounting the new rails to the Main, and then the auxiliary tables.
I could not have adjusted the rails if there was a need.
(I have this nagging feeling something is being forgotten.)
Anaway, perhaps because my brain at that point was operating in "Safe" mode and not allowing further input, recollection of the installation of rails on the Aux tables is hazy, but I think that if I were to go down and check right now I would find that they are attached by "screws" and not "bolts" as is (more) normally the case with "new" style rails & tables.
(The old rails went from "screws" into a tapped hole, to stud "bolts" into a reamed hole, and the new 520 rails are mounted with bolts and nuts into the Main table, and screws into the Aux tables. No drilling involved.
That's most of it. Hope I got it right.
Whooo-boy! We may never know what was 'standard'.
FWIW the newer 510 rail tubes have studs hence the need to drill out the threads.
A bolt is a screw with no precision surface on the head or no tool attachment surface. Correct, but not common practice. [No offense!!!]
A stud is a headless screw{no sexist meaning intended}[pun intended](statement accurate). . . . . . . . . Coulda said 'rod'.
The early 510 used tapped holes and screws.
The later 510 used studs and smooth bore holes and washers and kepnuts.
You had a mish mosh and had a later main table(with smooth bore holes), but aux(extension and floating) tables with tapped holes.
Upon getting the 520 upgrade 'super kit', from your post as I unnerstan it:
Yer 520 rails mounted to the 'later' 510 table with screws, spacers, washers, and kepnuts(just like a 'normal' conversion from late 510 to 520).
Yer aux tables still have the tapped holes and the rails are attached with spacers and screws.
Since the older 510 table was not in de mish mosh mix, the center hole already had the 'new' location.
So I'se still confused how the height gauge is used with no slop!
That nagging feeling is likely caused by yer not including the following!
The studs slid in with no need to gauge(ya did not have the 520 gauge then!;)).
I assume yer 520 gauge indicates perfect height. If the holes are as 'non-sloppy' as you infer, as I just said, how in tarnation can an adjustment be made????
