Lower tubes - install and align with upper tubes?

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri May 16, 2014 6:03 pm

fitzhugh wrote:JPG, the photos in the 2nd link show your machines, right? Have you repainted that goldie, or have you managed to keep it that pristine all these years? Of course I can o nly see the underside of the way tube shim screw area, but impressive.
. . .

Those photos are of my 510 which has been languishing lately. The interior of all my refurbed castings are primed with self etching primer. Makes them look better! The tubes were cleaned up prior to the pix.

P.S. that goldie pix was not from my goldie, but is indeed a repainted refurbed casting.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Fri May 16, 2014 8:09 pm

fitzhugh wrote:JPG, the photos in the 2nd link show your machines, right? Have you repainted that goldie, or have you managed to keep it that pristine all these years? Of course I can o nly see the underside of the way tube shim screw area, but impressive.

Dusty, no timetable, though I have to leave town for the weekend tomorrow and, while I will enjoy the trip, I know I'll keep wanting to walk into the shop and tinker with the Mark V.

I put my proper bench build (vs. previous salvaged desk thing) on hold when I got the two ss off craigslist. However, I approximated what you suggest. My goal currently is to get the four tubes all parallel to each other...

With the way tubes off and the base on the floor upside down, I first shimmed the RH side of the base so the lower tubes were level, checking across the two tubes but ignoring the length of the tubes. I then played around until the other end was level across the tubes and the tubes had 48 1/4 inches exposed. I tightened down and flipped it back over, and wow! I knew the floor was off but didn't realize how much. I've shimmed the base on the floor and checked it all again and it seems good to go, though I expect to repeat the process with more care after I've got it all running right. I know it will still flex if not shimmed on the floor just right but it is a start.

Edit: forgot to mention: I looked around for something to use as temporary shims and came up with using a set of hex wrenches. They varied in size in small enough amounts over the right range so I was able to level the upside down bases, hex wrenches between base and floor.
So, now to go replace the way tube assembly - that poor roll pin! I've got to pick up some replacements.

Once you get the Bench Tubes mounted and secured in the Headrest and Base, the plane formed by the top edge of the Bench Tubes should become the reference surface for all other alignments.

fitzhugh · Post by **fitzhugh** » Fri May 16, 2014 8:52 pm

Yeah, that is my plan at least. I have the lower tubes in a plane, to twist/wind that I can tell (very loose tolerances thought).

Now, I'm wondering again about the length of the lower tubes. Should there be any space between the tie bar and the left base when it is clamped? With the lower tubes set up as described above (just to the edge of the casting, which matches 48 1/4 inches exposed) and the tie bar clamp engaged I've got a tad over 1/16 inch space between the downward "V" portion of the tie bar and the base itself:
[ATTACH]25058[/ATTACH]

Should the tie bar brace against the base or is this space OK? It seems to me there should be just enough clearance that you can lower the way tubes down and then have the space close when clamped.

Since buying this pair of SS I've wanted to repaint both. The grey 82 refered to here in this thread had a really still decent paint job, but man is that color ugly. I'm colorblind and I still can't stand it. I hope to eventually repaint the greenie the proper hammered green, and repaint the grey as a greenie, or better yet, goldie. Don't know if that is sacrilage here but I'm not going for a proper full restore, just nice and shiney users.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sat May 17, 2014 1:27 am

fitzhugh wrote:Yeah, that is my plan at least. I have the lower tubes in a plane, to twist/wind that I can tell (very loose tolerances thought).

Now, I'm wondering again about the length of the lower tubes. Should there be any space between the tie bar and the left base when it is clamped? With the lower tubes set up as described above (just to the edge of the casting, which matches 48 1/4 inches exposed) and the tie bar clamp engaged I've got a tad over 1/16 inch space between the downward "V" portion of the tie bar and the base itself:
[ATTACH]25058[/ATTACH]

Should the tie bar brace against the base or is this space OK? It seems to me there should be just enough clearance that you can lower the way tubes down and then have the space close when clamped.

Since buying this pair of SS I've wanted to repaint both. The grey 82 refered to here in this thread had a really still decent paint job, but man is that color ugly. I'm colorblind and I still can't stand it. I hope to eventually repaint the greenie the proper hammered green, and repaint the grey as a greenie, or better yet, goldie. Don't know if that is sacrilage here but I'm not going for a proper full restore, just nice and shiney users.

There is no 'sacrilege' regarding colors, only personal preference. I have a 'goldie' scroll saw.

The clamp should firmly hold the tiebar in position without having to touch the casting. It should be adjusted to lock down firmly, but not require a gorilla to clamp.

fitzhugh · Post by **fitzhugh** » Sat May 17, 2014 3:58 am

Good - I'll need to learn to paint properly, but I love shopsmiths in those colors. I just read up on how the old speed control on er10s work and that was the final straw - I want one. Mark 5s are great but the ERs are classy. I guess I've come down with a SS habit.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sat May 17, 2014 9:08 am

fitzhugh wrote:Good - I'll need to learn to paint properly, but I love shopsmiths in those colors. I just read up on how the old speed control on er10s work and that was the final straw - I want one. Mark 5s are great but the ERs are classy. I guess I've come down with a SS habit.

They cost as much as a 'stock' 10. They can be broken easily(reason they be somewhat scarce). Operator diligence will prevent breakage.

Belt squeeze occurs in both directions.

And they go from 425 to 6800 rpm, but do require a belt swap(two ranges with no overlap).

fitzhugh · Post by **fitzhugh** » Sat May 17, 2014 2:08 pm

There is one on eBay wrongly listed as a Shopsmith speed reducer for $150 buy it now/free shipping. Wish I had A) an ER to put it on and B) $150. Or just $150 so I could buy it, polish it all up, and pretend. Oh well :)

Edit... $140, not $150

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sat May 17, 2014 3:44 pm

fitzhugh wrote:There is one on eBay wrongly listed as a Shopsmith speed reducer for $150 buy it now/free shipping. Wish I had A) an ER to put it on and B) $150. Or just $150 so I could buy it, polish it all up, and pretend. Oh well

Edit... $140, not $150

You got 23 days to cough it up!

All those pix and none reveal which version it is.

skou · Post by **skou** » Sun May 18, 2014 3:55 am

[quote="JPG40504"]They cost as much as a 'stock' 10. They can be broken easily(reason they be somewhat scarce). Operator diligence will prevent breakage.]

Remember, just like the Mark series, don't adjust the speedchanger unless the belt is moving. You can mount a sanding disc, or even a 6 inch lathe faceplate, just make the belts are moving. Watch the springs on the speedchanger control shaft, if you are compressing them, you're turning the knob too fast.

steve

fitzhugh · Post by **fitzhugh** » Mon May 19, 2014 4:38 pm

Sooo... We visited my mom this weekend and I was telling her about my new Shopsmith habit... She wanted to see what they look like so I searched online for a photo. The first picture was of an ER. She gave a surprised and enthusiastic "Oooh, that's COOL looking!"

I said "uh, well, that's the earlier model. This here is what I have..." And showed her a Mark V.

Her response?

"Oh . That kinda just looks like a machine. Not like that other one."

Oh well! :)