It is taking me forever to get my 10ER back together. I still have parts in various stages of painting from primed to almost done. I might even have a couple of things that are done....... been so long I don't remember anymore.
Well one thing I wanted to get at was the wood base from my machine. I had thought about making a total new one but then I decided to see what I could do with the old one. It was in bad shape. Painted red, stained with oil and who knows what else. It had holes drilled where it didn't need holes, I guess it was an accessory shelf or sorts??
So the paint was the first to go. It is still not "clean" but good enough for this stage of the game. The accessory holes were not something that I plan to use so today's efforts were directed at them. The mounting hole I think were fine but it has been so long I can't remember if they were where they should be or not. For now I'm assuming they are.
The old wood is thicker and wider then the modern stuff so that is another thing I like about what is there. I'm hoping I can live with the rest.
Let's get started with some pictures.
This picture give a good idea of what things look like now.
A close up of the holes shows that some of them will take extra work.
Some of the holes needed redrilling or cleaning up so I set up to do that.
Some of the holes took more drilling then others but there was no problem drilling them. Look how nice the chips are, just like they should be!
This next picture shows the hole that that are going to be filled.
Tightbond glue and a rubber hammer and in they went. I cut them longer then needed.
I will wait for the glue to dry then cut them flush. Here you can see how much extra I left.
So while the glue dries and I get back to this I show you the rest of the process and then I will make a decision about how I feel about staying with this top.
Ed
Today in the shop (10ER wood)
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Today in the shop (10ER wood)
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
Re: Today in the shop (10ER wood)
Had a little time left at the end of the day to do a little more on this project.
Used my handy no-set saw and cut the dowels down:
Finished with some sanding:
I'm still not thrilled with the look.
My next thought was to use this MDO (1/2") and very close to the size I need as a top. I would retain the lumber but just cover it up. It will be a bit more work as I will then have to wrap the edge but that isn't too big a deal..... the worst part will be cutting it for the leg braces I think.
Not a 100% sure yet.
Ed
Used my handy no-set saw and cut the dowels down:
Finished with some sanding:
I'm still not thrilled with the look.
My next thought was to use this MDO (1/2") and very close to the size I need as a top. I would retain the lumber but just cover it up. It will be a bit more work as I will then have to wrap the edge but that isn't too big a deal..... the worst part will be cutting it for the leg braces I think.
Not a 100% sure yet.
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
Re: Today in the shop (10ER wood)
Nah,you just need to add more holes (and dowels) all the way down the length of the boards to make it look like it is a design "choice."
Gale's Law: The bigger the woodworking project, the less the mistakes show in any photo taken far enough away to show the entire project!
- BuckeyeDennis
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 3814
- Joined: Tue Jul 24, 2012 10:03 pm
- Location: Central Ohio
Re: Today in the shop (10ER wood)
I say inlay a nice contrasting veneer over the dowels. Shipwright could undoubtedly advise on an artistic design ... 
- rjent
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 2121
- Joined: Fri Mar 14, 2014 3:00 pm
- Location: Hot Springs, New Mexico
Re: Today in the shop (10ER wood)
I would start at the other end, and start a "bubbles in the beer" pattern ending at the froth at the top. Do a wavy pattern starting with one dowel at the far end and continue with added complexity as you go to the "top". You could even decal a beer label under the finish .....
Just a thought ...
Just a thought ...
Dick
1965 Mark VII S/N 407684
1951 10 ER S/N ER 44570 -- Reborn 9/16/14
1950 10 ER S/N ER 33479 Reborn July 2016
1950 10 ER S/N ER 39671
1951 jigsaw X 2
1951 !0 ER #3 in rebuild
500, Jointer, Bsaw, Bsander, Planer
2014 Mark 7 W/Lift assist - 14 4" Jointer - DC3300
And a plethora of small stuff .....
"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." - Benjamin Franklin
1965 Mark VII S/N 407684
1951 10 ER S/N ER 44570 -- Reborn 9/16/14
1950 10 ER S/N ER 33479 Reborn July 2016
1950 10 ER S/N ER 39671
1951 jigsaw X 2
1951 !0 ER #3 in rebuild
500, Jointer, Bsaw, Bsander, Planer
2014 Mark 7 W/Lift assist - 14 4" Jointer - DC3300
And a plethora of small stuff .....
"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." - Benjamin Franklin
Re: Today in the shop (10ER wood)
Could you move the pivot base to that end, it would cover a lot of the plugs. 
Ron Dyck
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10ER #23430, 10ER #84609, 10ER #94987,two SS A-34 jigsaws for 10ER.
1959 Mark 5 #356595 Greenie, SS Magna Jointer, SS planer, SS bandsaw, SS scroll saw (gray), DC3300,
==================================================================
10ER #23430, 10ER #84609, 10ER #94987,two SS A-34 jigsaws for 10ER.
1959 Mark 5 #356595 Greenie, SS Magna Jointer, SS planer, SS bandsaw, SS scroll saw (gray), DC3300,
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paulsgreenbarn
- Gold Member
- Posts: 184
- Joined: Sun Feb 09, 2014 9:06 pm
- Location: Delevan,NY
Re: Today in the shop (10ER wood)
WHY would you cover up all the character of the machine's past life with that smooth lifeless crap MDO? The scars ans holes are all part of the history of the machine.put a nice oil rubbed finish on that old wood and enjoy the look.Then again ,I would have left the holes too.hah Just my $.02 Good luck with the restoration.