Floating Table w/T-Track

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dusty
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Post by dusty »

dusty wrote:Jim, ...........

In the extension table, where are the holes located?

Can you post photos? In the latest Shopsmith Catalog, on page 41, is the base pictured there sized specifically to fit the Shopsmith Extension Table. I assume the two knobs are located where the holes would be in the extension table.

PS I took these shots of the table underside to confirm hole location. Are the circular reinforced areas in photos 1 and 2 where the holes are located?

The third photo shows two other reinforced areas. Does anyone know of holes being located in these areas?

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dusty
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Post by dusty »

dusty wrote:I thought about that, Tim. With the router table involved there is not enough room within the 5' spread for two main tables and the router table.

One of those tables would have to go on the "outside" of an extension table and be supported with adjustable legs. Yes, it could be setup but would it be a viable configuration?

Gary, you may have a good idea there. I have a t-track that could be used that way. As you point out, mounting it accurately and securely to the side of a table might be the show stopper. No, actually, I have a hangup that is my show stopper. I can't bring myself to drill holes in my tables.

Gary]drill the table[/I].
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greitz
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Post by greitz »

Dusty- Looks good! Are you attaching the T-track to a piece of wood, a section of angle iron, or what?

I share your apprehension about drilling holes in the table, it was painful for me to drill holes just to attach the utility light brackets in several places.

Do you have spare table rails? If you do, could you mount them to a piece of wood, attach the T-track to that piece of wood also, and just connect the "floating T-track jig" to the extension table with the connector tubes?

Gary
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dusty
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Floating Table w/T-Track

Post by dusty »

Gary,

I have no extra rails but I have extension and floating tables with rails in excess of the number supplied with a full up Mark V 520.

I attached a T-Track to a piece of 1" aluminum angle that is 22 1/4" long. The aluminum angle is then attached to the side of a table using three machine screws.

[ATTACH]2032[/ATTACH]

The band saw fence was removed before it fell off.
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james.miller
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Post by james.miller »

Dusty,

The 3/8" holes are drilled in the circles closest to the rails the TS fence attaches too, they are drilled from the under side of the table and I used a counter sink by hand to gently debur the top of the holes.

The mounting platform is held in place with the 1/4" 20 threaded rod with knobs (Ace Hardware), the standard 1/4" nuts are inserted into the casting circles on the bottom and pulled into place with a 1/4" bolt that is over several large and thick washers (fender washers) on the table top and gently tighten until the nuts seat all of the way into the casting circles. It's a force fit so go easy, once the nuts are seated into the underside of the table they will stay. The fender washers will also be used when mounting the jig.

The mounting platform is 23/32" thick (.718), you may have to adjust this measurement for your INCRA jig also you may be able to adjust the fence height on the positioner rail and just use a piece of 3/4" plywood
Jim in Tucson
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

Thanks, Jim. I did not have expect 3/8" holes; I'll have to redrill.

To avoid tear out on the table side when the bit breaks through, I will sneak up on final holes size. Of course there will be a backer board too.
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