Shopsmith Forums

With the volume of various threads and posts related to technical info on the Mark 5 / V machines, I saw it fitting to start a thread that can compile 5 / V related information in one place. It will either contain the info directly or link out to appropriate areas. Informational commentary and dialog is welcome. To keep the thread on topic may be difficult. We'll see how this works.



Troubleshooting and repair:

• Motor sheaves - Damamged and sticking - this thread
• AO Smith 1 & 1/8 HP Motor Guide - this thread by joshh
• Sawdust sessions - all, Sawdust and Blackboard Session Searchable Index, SS Reborn 1: Bargain or Basketcase, SS Reborn 2: Cleaning and Inspecting, SS Reborn 3: Rebuilding the Drive Train, SS Reborn 4: Rebuilding the Quill
• Repair procedures - All-In-One Wood Tools website
• Fence Alignment
• Drill chuck - Disassembly, inspection - This thread
• Bearings
• Gilmer clutch - Disassembly, cleaning, torque testing
• Gilmer belt adjusting
• Poly-V belt alignment - 1, 2,
• Shopsmith parts and accessories service site
• Complete Mark V reassemble instructions by member JPG40504
• Headstock disassembly instructions and parts list
• Disassemling and lubing a frozen drill chuck

Restoration Threads - mickyd, mikelst, ddvann79, fiatben

• Varioius paint color schemes - 1, 2, Heath's New Orleans Saints theme, wannabewoodworker
• Gallery of Restorations- DON'T MISS SEEING THIS THREAD

General Information

• Overall dimensions of a Mark 5 / V
• Serial number data - Serial number table from ShopSmith website, mickyd serial number table filling in the blanks on ShopSmith site table
• Caster assembly instructions, and this one too
• Casting differenceif you have 1-3/4" vs 1-7/8" bench tubes
• Model 500, 505, 510, 520 differences
• Model 510 lower saw guard on a model 500
• Mark 5 / V manual revision levels
• Bench and way tube outside diameters
• The Evolution of the Mark 5/V - Shows the ShopSmith throughout the years
• Upper and lower sawgaurd - Mark 5 PN 505627 and 28, Mark 5 PN ??
• The mystery drips on the Mark 5/V legs - judaspre1982 and mickyd's, fiatben's

• Interesting machine modifications
• Miter gage - Adding one to your extension table courtesy dusty
• Model 500 table height adjustment handle knob conversion over to the circular style
• Installing 505/10/20 Crankon 500 table lift

Troubleshooting and repair:

• Motor sheaves - Damamged and sticking - this thread
• Sawdust sessions - all, Sawdust and Blackboard Session Searchable Index, SS Reborn 1: Bargain or Basketcase, SS Reborn 2: Cleaning and Inspecting, SS Reborn 3: Rebuilding the Drive Train, SS Reborn 4: Rebuilding the Quill
• Repair procedures - All-In-One Wood Tools website

Restoration Threads - 1

reserved for stuff

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reserved for even more stuff

Admin, if you're reading this, can you make this thread sticky? And then delete this reply?

I have an A-headstock greenie from my dad. I use it infrequently but when it kept tripping the breaker, and after cruising this forum, I decided I needed to lubricate. The motor and belts were replaced about 10 years ago.

In drill press position.
Motor dropped.
Control sheave removed(and drive belt). Belts in decent shape.
No lubrication holes except on floating sheave(as expected).
Not a lot of sawdust inside. Overall things look pretty good except porkchop which is not the subject of this thread.
Poly V-belt (or Gilmer) in place.

After I finished lubrication (I am still in drill press position) I manually turned the main spindle shaft clockwise and it is smooth.
However, counter clockwise it binds. I know that this is a forbidden movement when the drive belt is in place and would cause binding. But what does counter clockwise binding indicate with drive belt disengaged ?
I can't seem to find a forum answer.
Hope its not the bearings!

Thanks to forum members for taking time to share.
I hope I am in the correct thread!

I got this thickness planer with the cast alum round handle used to adjust the plate. It is hard to turn, I lubed the lead screws with bo-shield a light lubricant usually used for Alum. But is still very hard the turn handle. Not sure how hard this should be. And help will be appreciated.
Thanks RICK

onevw wrote:I got this thickness planer with the cast alum round handle used to adjust the plate. It is hard to turn, I lubed the lead screws with bo-shield a light lubricant usually used for Alum. But is still very hard the turn handle. Not sure how hard this should be. And help will be appreciated.
Thanks RICK

======================
It is probably dust..

I am no expert ,,,,so allow me to just ask a question,,,, when the table moves up and down ,,,,,it slides in a track on the ends,,, could they be full of dust ,,or even rust?

my dad has a planer that adjust the table with a chain when ya turn the crank handle, constant cleaning is a good thing.

good luck



Hobbyman2

It should turn quite easily.

I would be suspicious of the elevator(jack screws) sprockets being out of sync with each other. Have you checked the side to side/front to rear alignment to the cross bars?